Hi Linda, Sorry to hear you are at your witts end. So dissapointing when you have such a negative experience of what should be a wounderful and positive experience building or renovating. Don't let it get you down too much, it shouldn't be too hard to get the rail changed if you explain to your builder that you are very dissatisfied with the rail and that you want it changed to a shape that's more appealing. Don't get yourself flustered but be firm, male builders at times think that woman are dumb and anything will do and that is sooo wrong on sooo many levels!!! My builder is hubby and althought he doesn't consider me dumb, he wouldn't want to ha-ha....but he does have that "it will be fine mentality" that I have to constantly keep in check but we work together real well and laught about pretty much everything and how he's not having anything to do with building my kitchen that he jokingly says he can do with a chainsaw just to stir me up ha-ha. Keep in touch. Cheers, Barbara

Besides the fact that it isn't my style (and thus I agree with oklouise to sell on ebay...), the first thing which strikes me, is the crammed working area: stove/ sink/ prep. How can you operate in that space? Other side appears to be too far away to be practical? Then the fridge! If you have an expensive and very ornate kitchen, you can't have a free standing fridge! One way or another your fridge has to be integrated, which brings you back to the style question. Either you like the style and just want to i.e.white wash it (liked that option, if you are into beachy, country), then you need a matching door made up (I'd calculate 2K) and buy an integrated fridge (A$ 2-4K) or you don't like the deco, lay-out, impractical space and want to replace it all, then you can possibly get away with a free-standing fridge in a much less ornate kitchen. If you basically don't mind the kitchen and can work well in the crammed working area, or your budget doesn't stretch to a new one (think about $ 25k+), I agree with the white wash solution and taking off all the excessive ornaments and trims, putting in a flat SS or glass range hood. Also install rails with hooks next to cook top and hang your utensils, you need every square inch on the counter! Microwave to be incorporated perhaps under oven and off benchtop. Maybe spend the money and buy a matching Miele microwave, will look nice with the oven. Look into brightening the gloomy kitchen (on top of white wash) by changing the black bench top and splash backs with light ones. It might save $$ if you just get the ex one covered ( I guess about A$ 6-7k). If it was my kitchen I would definitely sell it, before spending all that money on bench tops, fridge door, integrated fridge, m/w integration, removal of trims, painting, splash back etc. and still end up with a mediocre and impractical kitchen. Would be very interested to see more of your actual style. Can only make out an Ikea shelving unit on one photo... Your decision has a lot to do with the longevity (and cost) of a kitchen, your actual style and the practicability of the ex kitchen! If you can afford it, think long term and maybe save up for THE kitchen you want. If you want some tips on how to keep costs in check and still get a great result for a new kitchen, just contact me. Good luck.

I suggest the very first thing to do , would be to decide your budget and what you want to achieve , and to a certain degree what the suburb is like ? If it's the 'worst' house in an upmarket suburb , then $100K or even $200k may really lift its value , but if its in a 'cheaper' suburb , you may over capitalise . Like others , some things I'd look at -- -- Do the gardens , trim the tree , looks more like rank grass along the side of the driveway ? Maybe a white stone garden , with a Yukka ort similar . -- The concrete driveway looks 'drunk' , but that may be because of the shapes it was laid in ? Level it , take the front out to the street , talk to an expert about doing a one-run top coat of concrete . -- Remove the fairy lights , relocate the satelite dish . -- Personally , Id frame upwards on the top of the carport and lounge roof , and also the first floor roof , and put bright 25-30cm tall painted or powder coasted alloy panels -- cover the gutters and 'hide' the solar panels . Paint or coat them whatever colour you like , but I'd go for something like bright yellow or orange or red , mid blue , a crisp green ? -- Someone suggested brown wooden 'louvres' full-length over the upstairs windows . I'd be tempted to go with that idea ( buy 30mmx30mm pine , and a mid brown stain -- 6 or 8 'rails' along that upstairs on the side and front you can see in the pictures . Instead of mid-brown stain , a black/charcoal may suit better , especially if you go with those bright panels . -- Maybe a fence in the same 30 x 30 horizontal wood , same stain colour -- ties the upstairs to the 'ground' level ? Relatively budget , and can be done in several steps , but would 'lift' it no end IMO .

Hi Linda As Oklouise has said above, there are standards for the height range (riser) and the depth (going) along with a maximum pitch of the overall staircase (2R+G). It is a concern that you have fallen twice and we only ask as the photos aren't clear as to the proportions. It's no issue if you don't want to provide them. That said, if the going dimension is short then you are always coming down the stairs with the back half of your foot only. Regarding slippage, most flooring companies are not supplying nosings as the slip ratings can usually be achieved with high build coatings eg the Duragrip PLUS. This could probably be applied straight to your stairs as they are with a bit of a buff up first. Regarding the handrail, we have done curved handrails up and around these sort of staircases. I would suggest it would be money well spent in having the existing rail extended up and around the corner for safety so that the place where the steps are most tricky has a firm support. As it sits now you only have an end to hold onto. Cheers