The next time I decorate by a colour of the year will be the first time. Don't hold your breath. I have nothing against this particular colour but it doesn't work with all the things I've collected over the years, and I am not about to discard carpets bought after hard bargaining with dubious merchants in Istanbul or Islamabad because they don't "go" with a paint colour that someone voted "colour of the year." In its place, I think the colour would be quite nice (better than this years choices, certainly). It's just that my place isn't the right place for it.

@ jmm1837....I think you are very courageous answering this exceedingly difficult question! The answer above is probably something like I would say. I've been an artist for many, many years but not famous, not well known although I've sold many works and can turn my hand to any style, my preference for my own interest is "in the style of Turner" I've written a book on Colour Mixing for artists which is a teaching text. I'd say that there are not many questions I cannot answer about Colour....with the exception of these kinds of questions....to which, in my opiion, I concur with you, there is no one answer. I often thank my lucky stars that I live in a 1900s timber home that resembles a log cabin inside....Queensland Hoop Pine VJ ceilings, walls and floors, silky oak arctic glass casements, Hoop Pine or Silky Oak doors...and the only colour is the furnishings...and I can't even decide on these! So - to ask me "What Colour" to paint the walls of a house for sale really jangles my brain! I've never had to resolve that dilemma here...I'm not going to paint it...ever! So how to assist in this dilemma? As you explained, jmm1837, older character home -use some colour, newer home with clean lines - light neutrals...so far I agree. BUT...I was watching one of those TV home reno shows...A couple who could not agree on any colour for anything and a designer ,( bless her persevering, understanding, patient, kind, and dog-with-a-bone determination) trying to help them do a reno. I was suddenly inspired ! I had encountered once a colour that contained all colours, that would 'go with' all colours but yet could be described as Lilac but wasn't...and Neutral but wasn't. Thinking "lilac" I think of demure, age appropriate attire and lace...so not very decorator inspiring. The particular LILAC they used for skirting boards, trim and door jams alike worked like magic! I can see readers screwing up their noses and almost hear others saying ERK...That was my reaction when the word Lilac was mentioned.... I did not take any notice what the brand was, I was too astounded by the finished effect. It wasn't Lilac, it wasn't grey...it was a colour but it was a neutral ....and it reflected a different shade depending on its position in the room and its proximity to soft furnishings. So....what's my solution? With both styles of home...think neutral with a tendency to the palest, palest of violetey greys maybe complemented with a drop of ochre ever so subtle...So a neutral to the eye but a colour depending on its position in the house, and keep it all the same, no accents...I believe the light and adjacent furnishings will work with such a hue. Colour is Magic. I'm convinced more than ever that it can morph into any hue. Just some thoughtful reflections from a colour fanatic.

I had the same problem too. I rang Dulux and had a paint consultant come in. I have chosen the white exchange full strength throughout the double story house as we have a lot of natural light with vivd white ceilings and WA white doors and trims. The bedrooms I have 1/2 strength white exchange with vivd white ceilings. I wanted my white kitchen to pop with the wall paint colour. Our kitchen cupboards are polar silk white with moose silk contrasting and ice snow bench tops. Hopefully it all blends with the spotted gum floorboards. We have not installed the kitchen yet. I hope it all comes together. Good luck.

Hi , I did a major repaint of my kitchen when I moved in last year (this is the second time I've done this in a home). From salmon pink doors and tiles with plastic pink handles, it has transformed into quite a lovely kitchen with crisp white benchtops and doors, retro aqua blue splashback tiles and chrome hardware. I didn't paint the floor tiles because it is not a good idea, it won't last. And I think in your case, the kitchen floor will not look as bad when you take care of the cabinetry and countertops (and appliances - don't forget the sink, this made a huge difference to my kitchen which had a horrible stained "white" fibreglass sink and plain tap). The only regret I have is that I was convinced instore by a staff member to use water-based enamel on the countertops and this was not a good idea as it marks and stains at a feather's touch and I am always scrubbing it with magic erasers to bring it back to white. Just use oil-based enamel, preferably gloss, and it will clean up beautifully. It will just yellow in about 5 years' time, which isn't an issue if you're not using crisp white like me. Step 1: remove all handles etc. and sand back the melamine/formica surfaces and vacuum up all dust. Wipe down all surfaces with methylated spirits to remove any other dirt and - especially - oils. Step 2: Undercoat all surfaces with White Knight Grip Lock Primer (keep this stuff on hand, it is magic and can be used for a million things). Give it two coats preferably. Step 3: Paint doors and cabinetry with a good quality high gloss acryclic. You can use oil-based enamel too, but it's easier to work with acrylic. It doesn't really scratch unless the cat tries to jump up above the cabinets and claw its way back down when it misses - in other words, don't run knives or screwdrivers down the doors and they'll be good. If it scratches, get a small artists brush and touch up with your leftover paint in the tins. It takes two seconds and is as easy as to do. Step 4: paint the countertops with an oil-based enamel. Clean up with turps. Do two coats and use a good quality brush. Give it a good few days to dry, a week is good if you have the time as it hardens in this time and becomes very strong - so put your camping gear and laundry sink to good use during this time! Step 5: put on new handles and hardware, install new sink and appliances and enjoy the makeover. For the tile splashback, follow the same steps, making sure you give them a good sand. You can use gloss acrylic here too. It will scratch if you knock it with a sharp object, but again, keep the touch up paints and a small artists brush handy. In your case, because the splashback doesn't go all the way up, I'd also consider chiselling the tiles out out and using a panelled splashback from somewhere like Ikea or Bunnings or a store that orders Laminex panels. They can be pretty cheap, and although not perfectly beautiful are a lot more attractive than those tiles. If you can save the tiles (the tile glue is probably old and brittle) and sell them, someone will love them on ebay! And even re-tiling with some cheap/chuck out tiles isn't difficult or expensive in that space if you are at all handy. Splashbacks in burnt orange or red would blend with the cream and floors. Other alternatives for the countertop (particularly if you don't want to patch up the gaps from the older, larger stovetops and sink) is to put in an Ikea or Bunnings (or similar) cheaper benchtop. I have also tiled a benchtop before and this worked really well with the added benefit of being able to put hot pots straight onto the benchtop. Don't use low end wall tiles. Use a stronger tile so they don't crack. Again, with your oh so brown floors, if you stick to lighter colours for the cabinetry (eg. antique white or cream) and a more sandstone-ish colour for the benchtops (or match the cabinet colour to the benchtop so you don't have to paint it and set off with the coloured splashback), the floors won't look as bad. Also, you can put a floor runner along the length of the kitchen hallway (in front of the oven/fridge area) if everyone in the house is generally steady on their feet and don't tend to trip over everything and this will break up the brown beautifully and you will barely notice the tiles. All in all, it cost me about $200 for the paint and equipment plus handles, sink and big shower tap, but it has meant that I am delaying my kitchen reno for a number of years, as I really like the kitchen now and everyone comments on how great it looks. None of this is hard to do. As a female, I have no problems doing all this myself as long as I have the time from work. But my father was a painter for 40 years, so that's why I can get the scoop on the best paints etc. to use on these projects. Good luck! PS: Don't let anyone tell you to whack some fancy paint on the doors and it will be done in a jiffy - it will peel off. Sand and grip lock prime - this is essential if you want it to look good longer than a couple of months.