Design inherently involves weighing up options against priorities within certain limitations/conditions/contexts. Structural integrity for the building needs to be addressed/managed either way and there are appropriate regulations/processes in place to ensure this occurs in order to achieve building approval ......the question here is more what do you want it to look like - ie do you want internal brickwork or plasterboard? You can manage termite risk or fire risk in various ways/methods.....best you balance/work through all this with the design professional you are working with or discuss some of the pro's & cons & cost differences of certain specification one way or the other with a local builder if you can

One thing no-one has mentioned is the reverse wave things on the barge boards -- I guess you could say they add character , but yeah , nah , not really ! Just dates the look IMO , so I'd remove them . See Pic 3 of yours , the yellowy butter beige is in the shade , and looks way better IMO . So use that trick of the eyes -- go a light off-white . While Surfmist doesn't tie in with the brick tone , I suspect that with the darker roof ( and my next suggestion ) it would work -- lets face it , its not going to look worse than present ! Keep the dark windows , BUT alo do that 150mm or whatever 'band' between the upper and lower windows , in a charcoal . It will make your place look way more modern . I'd even consider painting the garage door the charcoal too -- I realise it risks looking too dark , especially on a dull winter day , but I'd risk it , as it sticks to the same theme . Leave the front door as is though -- it looks like it doesn't quite suit in the close-up pic , but actually works in the longer shots , which is what 98% of people see . The other option , but more $$$$ , would be to completely change the front door and garage door , going to the same cedar or cedar look for both , or even a Japanese black -- in fact , a Japanese black with those blue influences , and Surfmist ( which also has a blue tinge ) on the timber , would be my number 2 choice ( behind cedar ) .

Paint is relatively cheap , it would tie the 2 'halves' together if done at least half way right -- that is part of my thinking on keeping the filligrees too -- they add interest and even a hint of class and a bygone era , but they are consistent across the buildings . But to do weatherboards over the brick , you either need to do 'fake' door and window surrounds , and then your doors and windows set back in ; or remove the doors and windows , do the weatherboarding and surrounds , and reinstall the joinery 'further out' . I guess you could try glueing the boards on , but they'll still be 50-60mm 'deeper' , but if you do say 50x50mm battens then weatherboard , you are adding at least 100mm to the window and door depths . A lot of $$$$ to not achive a heap IMO .

You have a very well done transition with no lip between the pebble Crete and the porch concrete. Are you prepared to have a little height difference when you add tiles? If so, a single colour tile that works either the garage door and the dark flick, or a light tile that works with the pillar and the light fleck. Depends if you prefer a dark or light look.