Gal will go grey (mid to dark grey) over 12 - 18 months. Initially VERY bright. The energy absorbed changes accordingly, from sub 5% absorbed to ~35%. Zinc maintains brightness for longer, though still suffers some dulling. Say 5% to 15% over time. This can be avoided by coating with a product called 'Sharkhide' metal protectant, used to stop aluminium boats oxidising. For there reasons many councils will not allow zinc or gal roofing (visual amenity, reflection issues), while making the houses more prone to requiring summer aircon at the same time. Surfmist Colorbond starts around 9% absorbed. If purely for energy reasons, a light colour might be the only option. If going dark, I would suggest at least doing the 'less aesthetically important' sides and rear in a light colour. Your call. If you go all dark, ensure you have good roof space ventilation for the summer that can be closed in the winter, and lots of well installed ceiling level insulation. Spray foam is more reliable over time than batts, see Spray It Solutions or similar (they have the Formaldahyde free Canadian Icenene foam).

" .....there has to be a better design " - that's why I'd love some input here! The 800mm gap under the box gutter will hold storage, the toilet, the 'european laundry' and the wardrobe for Bedroom 3, so certainly not wasted space. It will address all the storage needs, and will enable the garden-facing side to be quite open. No - pergola timbers are not preexisting - extending new ones from the new roof will be the primary shading device, and can have anything added to them to shade them. The box gutter enables the extension roof to be pitched upwards towards the west, creating a higher ceiling, enabling some kind of opening above the bifolds, to enable hot air to be expelled. Not that my own finances are the business of this discussion, but if I can get to lockup stage with my own cash, I can apply for a bank loan for the fitout. I'm not sure of your own experience OKL, but preliminary quotes for lockup stage were around the ballpark I'd mentioned earlier. I'll upload an updated floorplan soon :-)

Hi Kerry, I love the look of your home. Very warm and inviting, snug but roomy. In the living/dining anyway. The other space is a very wide passage is it not! Let me check I have this right: You use the entry at the back of the carport between the living room & bedroom which comes into the room in question. The kitchen is entered off the living room and opens onto the 'passage' room. Opposite that are stairs with the door opening into this room and bathroom which the kids in 2 bedrooms use. SO: how to fix a room that is handy but not quite wide enough to be more than the passage way.... Small uses and small furniture I think is the answer: If you use the large square dining table don't bother with another. If you want another space to sit have just one or two chairs. If you need some of it for study area pop a desk in front of windows at far end near kitchen: it maybe a tad quieter there? I would avoid a TV in there as it is not large enough. If the kids have play-station etc that may work there. Create traffic ways with the furniture: all f't to the right as you walk in (As long as entry door is on the left) but then you need to leave space to move across the room to bath and stairs so another off road! Traffic lights maybe needed if all else fails! If some day down the track you were thinking of renovating the kitchen, would you plan servery and access onto the dining/living room and close off the 'passage' room? That would at least give you one corner for more serious furniture! Hope that helps you and if not we can look further.... Cheers Margot

I’ve also seen similar doors in Bunnings and at the local door and window supplier (you’ll have one and may need to go seen them, often they have a low internet presence). The current front door doesn’t work with the house even with plain glass. The inspiration fence doesn’t suit your house either. Use plain wood (sometimes called blanks). May even be cheaper and definitely go the darker colour. It will look great with your garden plans. If you have the room set the fence back a bit so you can plant in front. It softens the look particularly for large runs of fencing and protects your paint from the bike handles/shopping bags of passing traffic. Given your situation I’d be asking council for permission to have sections of the fence at 1.8m at the “sides”, then having 1.5m along the front. For plant selection have a look at the Gardening with Angus website. For lots of native plant inspiration have a look on Pintrest (search native Australian gardens).