Hi Cathy, yes floors look just as good.... we did them in December 2013. When floors were brown.. wood coloured they showed a bit of wear (dog scratches), on the white you don't see the scratches... the white floors still look fresh... the beauty of the painted floors is that if you get heavy wear in certain areas, you can just repaint the floor!!! (ie no sanding... this is a big deal). If you decide to go ahead, I would love to see your before and after photos. Thanks. Following is how my husband did the floors: We are in Sydney, Australia... unsure if the following are international brands? My husband used Feast & Watson Floor Paint in White Satin (water based) and then 2 coats of Intergrain clear finish (also water based... so with sunlight the floors won't yellow if you use water based)

Hi there I thought I would jump in here a touch as you are on the right track but there are some glaring points that need to be cleared up for you before you go and purchase flooring. Laminate flooring is a Hi Def image of Timber flooring/oak/Natural Species etc and then transposed using a heat method to a MDF or HDF core, then profiled with a click system for ease of installation, maintenance relocation and repair. Good laminate flooring (Quikstep or Krono Swiss) can be very rewarding , look very much like natural timber, and be very durable against scratching and indentation. Laminates nemesis is high saturation of water or moisture. Good e budget solution for all living areas and rooms except toilets bathroom or laundrys. Engineered boards are a veneer of Natural timber and are just as durable as the solid version of whatever species you choose. Whether that be Spotted Gum, Jarrah or Oak. Sorry but you CAN re sand engineered boards. When re sanding occurs through a professional sander, the top .5mm is the depth of the product that you generally ever really need to remove. Some engineered flooring has a 6mm wear layer/ veneer and that's more than if you purchased a solid 19mm raw timber floor. Engineered boards are less likely "cup"(edge of the boards rising so that you can see a little lip) than a solid. We would recommend that if you are considering a timber floor please consult a retailer that only handles timber and specializes in that medium. Hope this helped

Our last house and our current house both had wood floors and lots of wood furniture. Using area rugs (I've got a weakness for oriental rugs) provides separation between the floors and the furniture. And if the walls are light, as in LesleyH's photo above, you will certainly not feel overwhelmed with wood. The only time there's an issue in my mind is when the walls are also wood clad - that can be a bit confronting and needs management.

What natural light do you get in the room/what orientation? i.e. is it a 'cold' or 'warm' room? If it's a colder room, I'd go with a grey with orange/red undertones to warm it up a bit, or if it's a warm room you could get away with a cooler grey, maybe green undertones to compliment the maroon. Or you could even try a green rather than grey. The Aerobus is a blueish grey so will be cooler. As others have said you would probably want a lighter tone than this for the walls (unless you're purposely going for a dark dramatic mood). 'Miller Mood' is a couple of shades up in the Colour Atlas. Get sample pots and paint a section on each wall, or paint a white bit of card and stick to the wall to see how the light is at different times of day.