With the 3D model you can track the suns movements over the months & time of day. With the correct orientation in summer the sun doesn't enter the building at all, in winter the northern side gets sun into the rooms.

@telperien - For linen/storage I've added a wall length robe in the study/activity room & one in the laundry (will add the labels in next update)

I'll add a small roof over the main entry

Good thoughts on radiant heat from pavers etc up against the northern glass, will keep it grass, thanks for looking.

@Westelect services - interesting ideas will look into them thanks.

UPDATED PLANS

Does anyone want to chime in with the aesthetics of this design?

I would of preferred the outdoor roof angle to be reversed so any water collected would fall onto the main roof and into the tanks. The only thing it would not have been so weather protective and would have to be a lot bigger to protect the same amount of floor space.

Top View

North Facing

South Facing

Plan

countless changes and here is my final design (I hope) cathedral ceiling from front straight through to the back outdoor area. maximized views north and south.

Top View

North Facing

South Facing

Plan

There will be a fireplace to the left of the tv, looking forward to that. The walls all around the theatre are extra thick so I can sound proof it better.

at the moment its block, will look into all the sound proofing methods & use what's appropriate. the floors will be polished concrete to soak up the winter sun.

Have you seen the roof inlets in Fasham Johnson houses? They do a section of cathedral roof with glass in both ends. It is usually in the lounge area, their designs focus on space and light and indoors connected to outdoors. Ive been in one of their small houses near Pottsville NSW and it was a beautiful use of space. I have never before experienced what its like to walk through a house and be led from one room to another as if it was a circular route that took me back to the beginning. My dream retirement cottage.

Hi where is wide bay? What climate zone?

What software are you using for design ?

Hi Dan, here is a link to ideas from Fasham re light, shading, the short vids in the inspiration section are great. The Fasham Johnson kit homes were around in the 80's and they are still beautiful. A friend sold one recently on Mornington Peninsula. Space and light is their game. http://www.fasham.com.au/inspiration-stream/

Heres a specific link to the roof inlet I mentioned. http://www.fasham.com.au/our-homes/malvern/

Ok. I love the large south facing window good way to get light without adding the heat. Make sure overhang on nth facing st least 4.5m extending from window. Get laminate glass with a low e coating. Your shading coeffient for clear can get down to 0.35. In some of the commercial building we design grey glass gets down to 0.22. But darker tints might make house look gloomy.

Hi Dan

I'm concerned that your northern eaves are only 600mm, that is exceptionally short for full height glazing (900-1200mm is optimal) however as you have glazed the entire north wall and appear to have no shading device at the window head you will need to extend the roof even further. Read the YourHome technical manual yourhome.gov.au for the technical reasoning.

I'd be concerned about the area of south facing glazing as you will lose a phenomenal amount of heat through that window in winter.

Finally, I'd suggest reading up on glazing technology if you are planning to specify it yourself. In a well designed passive solar home low-e glass will do you more harm than good BUT there are many situations (mainly renovations and poor passive design) where it is very useful to solve inherent problems. All high level glazing should be double glazed to reduce heat loss in winter. Good quality frames are another key part to your windows working. See a post we recently wrote on the topic here:

http://www.envirotecture.com.au/double-glazing-versus-low-e-glass/

I agree with Envirotecture. Extend your eaves to min 1 m or start your North windows at your hip height. The sun is going to glare down over your short eaves all Summer long.

Eaves also protect the fabric of your building from storms and general wear and tear.

To be clear, I am saying that if the roof remains in its current form the eaves over the triangle window will need to be 1500-1800+mm (can't say for sure without the model and considered thought)

Some of the North facing eave could be fixed louvers though.

Listen to the pros you have on your thread.

Do you not have grid NORTH on your plan !

Design Finalised - thanks all who contributed

The eave is not deep enough. You will get insufficient shade from the high Summer sun, and not enough protection from the rain. This will lead to increased load on your saved electricity (and you have a media room to run), and increased maintenance on outdoor cladding , windows and doors.

now the roof is a more conventional shape than earlier versions and windows have head area for shading would you recommend 900mm or 1200mm?

it's a thought

Dan it depends how far north you are. If you want Winter sun in NSW I wouldn't go deeper eaves than 1 m. If you're in the tropics you can go wider. Consider roller shutters (with manual override) especially on the West, where you should have vertical shade. Roller shutters are also good for repelling heat and sparks in bushfires.

why have you picked dark cladding and roof? That's better for alpine areas, not the subtropics, as retains heat. Go lighter.

Ok, I see there are no windows on the west. Have not altered my comment as the west comment may help someone else. Are you sure you get no breezes from the West?

I like the cross breezes you could get in the dining and living rooms.

However, I would move the doors in beds 2 and 3, to get cross breezes in beds 2,3 and 4. Put a security door in the laundry and you can leave that door open on hot nights.

Does your block get sea breezes from the East?

we're building in Childers Qld (Zone 2) on top of a hill 120m above sea level with no chance of being built-in as we are on a 69 acre block. Quite windy all the time predominately from the SE. All outside doors will be security. Roof has vents in the gables on all four sides so I can leave open to purge heat during summer and close off in winter. Bed 2&3 doors used to be adjacent bathroom door for cross breezes but a layout change in the bathroom meant having its door on the east now. Not ideal but necessary. Dark colour unfortunately is dictated by our very red soil that will stain any light colour so had to go dark, would of preferred light. So I should make my eaves 1200mm all around?

Because of the increased money to build them 1200, I'd ask Envirotecture, and tell him where you live.

http://www.houzz.com.au/pro/andymarlow/envirotecture

No trouble, mate. All the best.