we're building in Childers Qld (Zone 2) on top of a hill 120m above sea level with no chance of being built-in as we are on a 69 acre block. Quite windy all the time predominately from the SE. All outside doors will be security. Roof has vents in the gables on all four sides so I can leave open to purge heat during summer and close off in winter. Bed 2&3 doors used to be adjacent bathroom door for cross breezes but a layout change in the bathroom meant having its door on the east now. Not ideal but necessary. Dark colour unfortunately is dictated by our very red soil that will stain any light colour so had to go dark, would of preferred light. So I should make my eaves 1200mm all around?

lucky you! your water tank is below ground. I have to look at my 20,000 litre tank outside my kitchen window. It sits on a concrete plinth so I can't even plant around it. I'm too terrified to grow creeping fig on it incase it affects the integrity of the tank. At the moment it has wisteria draping over it, looks lovely in spring but deciduous and it's now becoming too invasive so need to get rid of it.. I also have star jasmine approaching from an arch beside - can't wait for it to take over the tank.. I love all the decorative features suggested but I reckon something like star jasmine might work with some other landscaping features to the side: bench, rock, more plants. The beauty of star jasmine is that it doesn't root, will drape over and can be pulled aside. Every couple of years I put the blower over the top of my water tank it to make sure the leaves don't mulch to create soil on top.

- Any wood fired heating we have would be purely run with wood from our farm, as opposed to buying anthracite. We would really like to have woodfire doing at least two jobs, i.e. cooking and heating/heating and hot water/cooking and hot water (as we are under the impression that solar hot water would not be enough in winter??). There's nothing like lighting a woodfire to keep your house warm, except for the great big hole in the insulation that it causes. As beautiful as they are (and I'm a massive fan of open/wood fires), they are pretty bad when it comes to ceiling penetrations. A lot of insulation is lost by having an open fire, a wood heater not so much, but still bad enough. For heating, the best advice I can give is this. You need a battery storage system! Then whatever type of heating you go for, you won't run out of energy for your cooking, cooling or anything else you won't to run at the same time. I believe this is a necessity, not to mention a very smart investment. If you want to be off grid, then be completely off grid. I personally don't believe in still being connected to the grid and having the energy your home creates, sold back to you for an absolute pittance. If you invest in a good battery set up, it'll last you up to 15 years and you'll have never have to worry about heating or cooling. I visited a house about 12 months ago that was off grid for power. They purchased an induction cooktop and electric oven, that way the idn't have to worry about refilling gas bottles or having a gas bill come in either. They didn't have the smartest idea when it came to lights as they were still using halogen's, but even still, their battery system never went under 80%. Even during winter, with two teenagers, and a couple of plasma tv's, playstations and all other sorts of electrical goods that they used. They were never too careful so as to make sure they had power in reserve. They just lived life and if they needed to make adjustments, then they could've done. But they didn't need to. That was all done with a 5.5Kw/H system. You'd be surprised how well solar hot water works. It just depends on the type of system you get. Again with battery backup, you won't need to worry. - We are planning to insulate the slab, but have not gotten as far as deciding what product we would use, are there several different products like the one you described? We do plan to have polished concrete flooring throughout the entire house – with the possible exception of bedrooms on the south, if absolutely necessary they will have carpet. I know it's probably more expensive, but I would recommend the Kingspan K3 Floorboards. It is a brilliant product and I recommend it to be used in all my jobs. The effect it has on an energy rating is massive. Depending on the layout and orientation of the house, just by adding slab insulation, I have noticed an increase of almost a full star difference in the rating. So that's from 6 star compliance, to 7 star above average. Here is the product site: https://www.kingspan.com/au/en-au/products-brands/insulation/insulation-boards/kooltherm-k3-floorboard - We will also be aiming to have the optimal amount of glazing for solar gain (and prevention of heat loss). I still haven’t worked out why I can’t upload a picture of our plans, but will do ASAP as we would love to hear feedback on our plan. As for the layout, you just need be mindful of window sizes and orientation. If you have the time before you build to play around with a few different variations of your plans, it might be a good idea, as just by changing a couple of small things, it can give you large benefits. One of the main focuses I have with my business is to help people such as yourself utilise the energy rating software to make small changes at the design stage, instead of just using such a powerful tool at the building permit stage. By then it's too late to make any significant changes. Just keep that in mind. It's a small price to pay to know that your house is going to be as energy efficient as it can be. If you want to, feel free to email me the plans and I can give them a quick look for you. Just to give you some quick advice on them. Giuliano green design & consulting

Hi Brant, We had instantaneous gas hot water when we lived in Japan and never had a problem with pressure, but we only had one shower. Gas storage water heaters apparently lose a lot of heat because there are parts that can’t be fully insulated. This makes them less efficient and more costly to run. Have you considered a heat pump hot water service? They are the most energy efficient form of hot water heater, using about 1-2 kWh a day for the most energy efficient ones (in a warmer climate like Darwin, solar hot water might be a better choice). Hot water heat pumps are better suited to Melbourne’s climate than solar hot water, which don’t really produce much hot water in winter and need boosting. If you already have solar panels then the hot water heating will essentially be free as even a winter Melbourne day can usually produce enough energy to power a hot water heat pump that is set to heat in the warmest part of the day. Even if you don’t, they use very little energy. The Victorian government is offering a $1,000 rebate on them at the moment, on top of other rebates. Related but off topic, if you don’t have solar panels then accessing the Victorian solar panel rebates is a no brainer but you can only have one rebate (solar panels or solar hot water, including heat pump hot water, or batteries), and you can’t access the rebate for solar panels if you already have them except in a few limited circumstances. https://www.solar.vic.gov.au/ Heat pump water heaters use the same technology as reverse cycle air conditioners. This means that for some brands, noise can be an issue. Some are whisper quiet. Check the dB rating before purchase. Some are more efficient than others and some work better in cold climates (like Melbourne) than others. We are installing a Sanden brand heat pump in our build in the Macedon ranges, colder than Melbourne. There’s also a new mob using the same technology as the sanden but a Victorian built tank and some more useful technology not offered by the sanden. https://renew.org.au/renew-magazine/buyers-guides/hot-water-buyers-guide/ Note that this guide says they have a COP of up to 3. Some have a COP if up to 5, meaning they are even more efficient. I’m not sure about the pressure issue with hot water heat pumps though but as they use a storage tank I’d imagine it’s not an issue.