Hi, I had a Spotted Gum Timber Floor ( 10mm Real Solid Timber Single Planks ) in a penthouse apartment for 8 years . It was pre-coated in high gloss clear from the factory . When it was laid it was necessary to have a noise reduction 3mm foam under layer ( apartments underneath building noise requirement) . This method of installation actually made the floor very quiet and it also made it a little softer to walk over . When it got any scuff marks, they just easily wiped off with a damp cloth. When I sold the penthouse, the floor was in exactly the same condition as the day it was first laid - first class. It was only ever cleaned with a steam cleaner , no chemicals whatsoever . I would certainly recommend the pre-coated polyurethane gloss finish on the real timber planks to anyone, it was great ! You can just see a glimpse of the kitchen floor in the attached two images. Good luck with your specifying . High quality surface finishes normally stand the test of time . I have added a couple of extra images of the penthouse for interest. We did the interior design fit out after buying the shell from the developer. It was a stunning sky home . Cheers LAADP

Timber with timber can work brilliantly, and it's in keeping with the mid century style you want for your home. This room (below) is a little similar to yours, albeit with less of a pitch to the roof - the large feature lighting helps to break up the expanse of timber on the ceiling. You have a lovely open plan area, so I'd be inclined to use rugs to create zones and a cosy feel. Rugs reduce the impact of a large expanse of flooring material. They have the benefit that you can swap things around to change the look and layout at little cost. I think one trick may be to define your "walls" carefully, and paint these before you go with a new floor. This should give you a sense of whether the timber is overwhelming, and how to balance it. E.g. You might decide it works best to paint the kitchen cupboards to white, to give you a more seamless look and work with your new counter tops. If you want to experiment with the "paint ceiling" approach - gulp, it's a big one!! - then maybe that small section above the kitchen bench, at a different angle to the rest of the roof, could be the spot. It seems to have the same horizontal line as the wall, so even if you don't like the painted look for the whole, you might be able to get away with blending this into the walls. Best of luck!

just put over a km of spotted gum decking into our new house near the beach. Architect and builder recommended and used Cutek oil. The oil seeps deep into the timber without putting a coat on the surface with will peel or fail. Would definitely not use any product that puts coat on the top of the timber. I have used other finishes on our decking at our main house (Cabots, inter grain etc) and all ended up looking terrible after being punished by the harsh Queensland sun. My advise is research your choice thoroughly, as undoing a mistake is very time-consuming and costly. I guess only time will tell if I got it right this time?? Photos below.

I had some clients that had this colorbond wrap over their timber fascias, which was a similar style to yours and they were very unhappy with the end result. Judging from the age of your home the existing fascia is probabaly a rough sawn oregon timber which has its own character. As timber can be readily trimmed, filled and sanded, the junctions between pieces, and at corners can be easily disguised to give the impression that they are continuous lengths. The problem with the colorbond material is the lengths are limited, and that the joints cannot be readily disguised. In my clients house the installers overlapped the colorbond wrap, and joined the overlapped part with metal rivets. In their case the joint happened directly over the front door and is really obvious. So before you sign a contract to wrap your existing fascia in colorbond there are a few questions you should ask: 1) Do you repair/replace any rotting timber before wrapping? Or is the rot just concealed? 2) What is the maximim length of colourbond fascia that can be supplied, and how is it jointed? Where will these joints occur? Are the joints weatherproof to windblown rain? 3) How is the colorbond fascia jointed at corners, and finished at the ends of the run? The colorbond finish is flat and smooth, so the existing character of the rough sawn oregon fascias will be lost forever. With the eaves, concealed gutters and timber fascias of your home being such an important element to the style of the home I would be considering spending my money on the maintenance and upkeep to preserve the existing character. At least ask your installer to supply addresses of some previous jobs so that you can see how the joints and corners are treated.