OLLD 2/8
olldroo
11 years ago
last modified: 11 years ago
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charleee
11 years agoS. Thomas Kutch
11 years agoRelated Discussions
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Comments (5)So to start at the beginning - hustlep2........how is it that the wood grain can still be seen through paint? I have the same lovely honey coloured cabinets and I need to refinish as opposed to replace. They are solid oak and in beautiful shape, but need to be brought into this decade. The counter top was updated about 2 years ago and I can work with it, deciding what and how to refinish the cupboards is not so easy. My husband is horrified at the thought of painting wood.....I know, it's old school thought I suppose, but I can appreciate his feeling too. I'm leaning to a two-tone design, maybe paint and stain.....not sure. We just bought the house 4 months ago (was built in 89) and have replaced all carpetting with solid provincial coloured oak flooring (not dark, not light....the colour is in between both) and porcelain tiles that look like slabs of marble with burned orange, deep browns, cream and grays running through it on a rich beige background. I am using colours and materials that lend a tuscan flavour.......tuscan sun on the walls in the living room with an accent wall in peacock feather, furniture is cappacino coloured. Very warm and inviting. There's just the crown molding left to do and that'll be in white as is the all the trim in the room. I want the kitchen and dining rooms to be bright, but still nod to the tuscan flavour in the rest of the house. The kitchen opens to a sun room overlooking a pool, deck and the river in our back yard (facing south / east). On the other side of the kitchen (L shaped with the kitchen in the inside corner of the L) is the dining room with huge windows overlooking the back as well. There is lots of natural light. I LOVE the tuscan sun colour (kind of a deep clay pot colour really), it's so warm and inviting. Any thoughts or words of advice to offer for the kitchen? 2 days ago · Like olldroo If you want a Tuscan look, then do not paint your cupboards. Fads come and fads go but if you look back over the years you will see timber is timeless, it is always around. Timber can always be polished or oiled to rejuvenate it but paint needs regular maintenance. 44 hours ago · 1 lauramaepatrie Olidroo, thank you for your comment. I agree with you completely about the paint or not to paint thing. I'm just cringing at the amount of work it is going to take to bring back a number of the cupboard doors. The cupboards as I said are in beautiful shape.....nothing is broken, no doors or drawer fronts are broken, cracked or chipped or even hanging askew, HOWEVER a few chosen door fronts (the ones in key places that are used 1,000 X a day as opposed to maybe 1 X per week like the others) have worn finishes. The wear is so bad on some that the finish is long gone and some of the surface wood grain has darkened. I have 26 door fronts (2 of which are very large pantry doors) and 7 drawer fronts in total, so I am really trying to figure out what we can do WITHOUT having to completely sand the old finish on all of these cupboard fronts. I should add that we are beyond middle aged (unless we are going to live to a VERY old age lol) and he have remodeled and redecorated many houses over the years usually just getting them completely finished in order to sell them. We have done well, but this is a much more up scale type of home than what we are used to working on so it's more of a challenge to make sure we are going to appeal to that range of buyer looking for a home in this price range. This house has 4,000 s.f. of living space and, as mentioned, in water-front, dbl car att'd garage, central air, etc. etc. Our investment dollars are limited, but that is something we ARE accustomed to in the sense of using imagination, elbow grease, our own work and a reasonable amount of talent to make the best of a home rather than just dishing out $$$ to someone else to do so. I am taking your comment to heart and even before reading it this morning, I woke up with an idea that I have been discussing with my husband even more positively since reading your comment. See, there's another link in all this......I mentioned oak hardwood and porcelain floors. We have done those in the rest of the house (hardwood in the living room and reading area off of the living room, down the hall to, and in, the 3 good-sized bedrooms and, of course, in their closets. The master has an extra wide "hall" that passes in front of an 8.5' X 8' walk in closet to the master bath. That whole section was done in cork flooring and will be the only flooring that won't be ceramic / porcelain or hardwood on this level. Now, back to the new twist for the kitchen. The original flooring in the kitchen and the back hall / entrance is ceramic and is rather neutral in tones, but our original plan was to use the new, gorgeous porcelain tiles we put in at the front entrance (and inlaid in the form of a large diamond in the hallway hardwood between the front entrance of the house and dining room) so that everything flowed throughout the house, it was either all the same hardwood or all the same porcelain. My husband is now flinching at the thought of removing the ceramics in the kitchen, back entrance. I understand as it is properly laid and will undoubtedly be a huge amount of work to remove. I'm just really unsatisfied with the thought of not having ALL the flooring flow. Do you happen to know if there is a way to remove the ceramics without damaging the prepped floor underneath? It's a type of plastic "bubble" looking stuff that you adhere to the sub-floor with a cement type mix. You then adhere your ceramic or porcelain tiles to it once it has dried. We used it under the porcelain we installed here and we can see that it was used under the ceramics in the kitchen. If there is a way of salvaging that when we remove the tiles, it would save a lot of $$$ and of course work in the end. 38 hours ago · Like olldroo lauramaepatrie - not always easy to visualise things but if your doors are solid timber then there should be ways of fixing them - or worst case scenario replacing just the damaged ones. I'm thinking if you sand the damaged ones back you should be able to remove the darker markings too. The surface wood markings is probably just basically ground in dirt. The other way I often have success is to use steel wool to scour the dirt and finish by rubbing Scandinavian Teak Oil into the timber also using steel wool. This oil seems to work well on most timbers but you can get other colours in oil if one might match your timber better. Can't help you with your tiles sorry, they do sound a big job. Perhaps you could talk to some local tilers and see what is involved. It sounds to me like the plastic would lift easier to remove the tiles rather than try to remove the tiles from the plastic. It all depends on how solid an adhesive it is. It all depends on patterns in the tiles, but if your entrance tiles are patterned and the kitchen fairly plain, then I think leaving things as they are would be fine - a stand alone entrance feature looks fine, in fact yours sounds very dramatic. Another alternative, if you did take up the kitchen tiles would be to replace them with the cork. I love cork for kitchens, it does take a bit of care, but it is so much softer underfoot and kinder to feet and joints (especially older ones). PS I'm on the wrong side of middle aged too so I completely understand things from the $$$ aspect. 30 hours ago · 1 lauramaepatrie olldroo, thank you once again for your input. You sound as though you know a good deal about wood for sure. Are / were you a cabinet m aker or carpenter of some kind? I'd like to hear more about these oils with colour in them.......the idea I woke up with this morning is exactly what you've suggested. Sand down the real rough ones, then using a stain / varnish or gel stain or whatever seems to work best to try to match the finish as best we can to make the cupboards work without anything jumping out at you (like the worn cupboard fronts do). I think changing up the hardware to something more modern (thinking brushed nickel, sleek door handles and drawer pulls, both the same) and some really sharp tiling for a back splash to draw the attention and add a wow factor. I thank you for your input and I'll wait to see if you can provide me with more info on this oil stuff. Is it hard to work with? What is the advantage as opposed to just stain and then varnish.......? 25 hours ago · Like olldroo lauramaepatrie - I'm just a senior with lots of experience, especially in the trial and error DIY department. I have picked up a bit about wood more from the Tasmanian Oak panelling, skirtings and architraves I have in my home. Can't help you much with oil brands because ours would be different to yours (I'm an Aussie), but I'm sure the guys at Home Depot or someplace similar would be able to guide you. I love hardware stores, I leave hubby at home and do what I call my "dumb broad act". I just ask every conceivable question, play the helpless little woman, even con free samples, until I get all the information I need. Works every time (don't tell anyone). I learned the trick about using the steel wool when we first put the Tassie Oak in, even though it is a very hard timber the steel wool still rubs it up enough for the oil to get in and it leaves a lovely patina on the timber. We used white shellac on it to bring the colour of the timber up and then oiled to preserve and maintain it, but I have also used oil on timber with other stains also with success. I have even put it over surfaces I'm sure are varnished and it still works. I re-oil it every 4 or 5 years and it still looks great after 35 years. It is very quick and easy to do, a little messy, but I would much rather oil 10 walls than paint 1. Put it this way, if your doors have had it anyway, you can't make them much worse, so you really have nothing to l...See Moreolld 4/19
Comments (204)Goodness gracious, mention a name here and it starts a whole new conversation. Our local library has the complete series of Bewitched on DVD so I like to get it out during non-ratings periods when there is nothing else to watch. I though Samantha was absolutely gorgeous, shame she died young. I remember seeing Agnes Moorehead in a few movies but it was so hard to see her without the Endora makeup, I kept waiting for her to zap something. You know Hitchcock wasn't a very nice person, I always loved Marnie and The Birds with Tippi Hedren she was such a brilliant actress but Hitchcock ruined her career - she claimed because she wouldn't sleep with him. He did lock a lot of actors and actresses into contracts and really controlled their careers. Mousemaker - a Gladys Kravitz here is called "Mrs. Sydney Morning Herald" one of our leading newspapers....See MoreOLLD 6/20
Comments (320)mforr - It's funny you should mention that, because I just looked at the map of queens, trying to remember the name of the highway that went thru a friend's neighborhood like that .. and I think they renamed it! There used to be an "Interboro Parkway", and now it's called the "Jackie Robinson Parkway"! Wikipedia says it was renamed in 1997 .. who knew?! "The Jackie Robinson Parkway is a 4.95-mile (7.97 km) parkway in the New York City boroughs of Brooklyn and Queens. The western terminus of the parkway is at Jamaica Avenue in the Brooklyn neighborhood of East New York. It runs through Highland Park, along the north side of Ridgewood Reservoir, and through Forest Park. The eastern terminus is at the Kew Gardens Interchange in Kew Gardens, Queens, where the Jackie Robinson Parkway meets the Grand Central Parkway and Interstate 678."...See MoreHelp with bathroom plans... for 4 children (2m2f) 8yrs between them
Comments (25)Hi Emma, As you say, whilst it's lines on a page, you have a precious window of opportunity to get it right - before you make all these choices and decisions permanent ones you are forced to live with. So I hope you'll appreciate my honesty, and not be offended by it. I am incredibly passionate about helping people create homes that make their lives better, and I want you to achieve the best outcome possible for your home, your budget and your life, and that's why I don't mince words. I have such concerns about this floor plan generally Emma. I can understand the desire to maximise the view however I believe that the everyday use of your home, traversing all those stairs, and being disconnected from your garden (especially with small children) is consequently being compromised, and will be challenging and frustrating. I think the multi-purpose rooms appear to be space for space's sake ... they lack thought and intention for their use, and the way you need to circulate through or across them will compromise their functionality, furnishability and sense of space. It's interesting that there's no furniture shown in them on these floor plans, whereas the other areas are all furnished. With family homes, I would consider the following: supervision of gardens from indoor living areas has such a dramatic impact on the usability of the home overall, and your ability to get stuff done whilst kids play etc a study nook or somewhere near living areas where kids' use of computers can be supervised, and you have a home 'command station' of sorts is also good the ability to acoustically close off a lounge area - which is the kids' TV / play area is very helpful for long term use I wouldn't split the bathrooms - I understand what you're seeking to achieve, but replanning to group them in one area will consolidate plumbing and your wet area finishes and be more efficient overall consider creating a floor plan that works with access / circulation etc between living areas and garden, and then having an upper floor living area or retreat where you can enjoy the view One of the biggest challenges with homes in Brisbane is that they are completely divorced from their gardens because they have prioritised the view. As a mum to 3 young kids, and having helped truckloads of clients with family homes (and families of all ages), I know this for sure ... the connection to garden ... the ability to move in and out with ease, safety and enjoyment ... is one of the things that pays dividends long term. The view is the immediate and early 'wow' but the inconvenience of having to take a packed lunch each time your kids want to use the yard or pool is infuriating. With clever design you can have both convenience and enjoyment of the view. Your home design dictates the lifestyle you lead in it. Focus on functionality and durability and it will create a home that works now and always. There is no northpoint on these drawings, so I can't comment as to the success of the planning in terms of the orientation - which is something to be aware of also. I'd also be doing a budget check. There are A LOT of wet areas in this home because of how they're being distributed throughout the floor plan. Best wishes with the creation of your new home, Regards Amelia Lee, UA www.undercoverarchitect.com amelia@undercoverarchitect.com...See Moreelcieg
11 years agolast modified: 11 years agoS. Thomas Kutch
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olldrooOriginal Author