@solarventi, Hi, sorry, I didnt work it correctly, It is an interesting concept, but I am not getting it>>> bit slow... How do you heat up in winter in Vic when we get very little sun and the weather has turned Artic this year, Main reason I am noticing the cold, especially when working outside. I do have low blood pressure so feel the cold, but the red clothing next to skin works a charm. I would like to understand... I have seen on uTube where they DIY passive heat I liked the pictures but no explanation and these were using exisiting windows .. I this with gap at bottom on outside so cold air comes in and gap at top on inside so warm air into house.... but got to technical for me. And I get confused, as hot air rises and I dont understand why fans are at the top in newer models not at bottom [of heaters] But I would mind understanding how it works.. Am going to check the website, TU very much. I have bats to put in kitchen reno but would like something to attach to the corrogated iron so there is no gap between iron and bats. Appreciate your help and will check again on your site to see if I missed anything :)

i also think the outside stairs work better for coming home with the groceries in good weather and, having lived in a similar upstairs bedroom overheating can be a problem: use the best insulation in the ceiling, roof and walls including between the ceiling of the living areas and the floor of the top level (our top level bathroom used to get a hot floor from the heat in the roof space). Shade cloth roller blinds or shutters on the north facing window. (do you like the French balcony?) will improve comfort levels and check out "stack effect" ...having a window open downstairs and a window open on the opposite side of the house upstairs will flush out the house as hot air rises..install closing doors on stairs and hallways to reduce draughts and contain heat in cold weather and add ceiling fans to increase air circulation

Hi Bella, I think it is smart to be strategic in how you approach council. My suggested process as follows: 1. Talk to your neighbours, show them what you have in mind. The goal being to keep them on your side. Ask for their honest opinion- better they give it now, than tell council about it during DA. Objections can be a major issue (even just 1). 2. Engage a private Town Planner for 1 hr. Show them your sketches. Ask them to review how compliant it is. There are many layers to this, some depending on what part of Marrickville you are in- heritage, flood, etc. Then all the typical for inner west- shadowing (the biggest issue for 2-storey alts&adds), FSR, tree conservation, on-site water management, build form/bulk and scale....the list goes on. Town Planners are around $200/hr and it may be the best $200 you spend during DA. Many architects will consult TP's after the DA goes in. This has never worked well for us. You can save yourself the $200 if you want to wade through councils many volumes of DCP's and LEP's. Frankly they hurt my head! My honest advice would be to submit the most compliant plan possible. This may mean some big compromises from you.....BUT.....the end goal is to get an approval. A DA rejection is $$$ lost and time lost. Once you have your approval, you can go back Oliver Twist-style and ask for more (eg: the compromises you made) with a Section 96. If they reject a s96- it's no major $$ or time lose. You can still appeal a 96 rejection to council or court. There is less to review,meaning less expense to you. Do a Pre-DA meeting with council. You will know straight up where they are going to nit-pick you. Make the adjustments for DA, then try again in s96 if you are that committed to it. I've not commented on when you engage an architect. Probably after 2 though. Always use local professionals. They know how to manage the council. Good luck!

Further to some previous comments I’ve made over the past few years on various subject matters ; anyone that would like some further detailed information on the subject on sun control window insulation films as an option to consider for improving both heat loss and heat gains through windows ( also referred too as window tinting and / or glass tinting ) , including glass security /glare control / fade protection and decorative glass treatments etc can check out some articles I had printed in the “ The Owner Builder “ magazine no’s 180 & 181 ( Dec-Feb 2013-2914 editions ) It may help those understand a little better the product for those having various issues, such as this present subject matter on cooling methods , in this comment section . As others have mentioned, one product may not solve all their particular problem/s and quite often more than one product / solution may often be required to obtain a better outcome . I’ve found a lot of problems start initially with overall buildings design , orientation and the amount of glass / windows used and their sizes /design and type / amount of insulation used overall . Having been in the window tinting industry for about 38 years now and covering both domestic and commercial buildings , I’ve noticed how the weather patterns changed to an extent that the solutions/ products that may have been available / used some 30 odd years ago ; now have new and updated products / solutions on offer . One can email me for further advice to clarify some issues . Although I’m a Tasmanian based business, I’ve lived and worked all around Australia and spent over 5-1/2 years in north Qld so do have some experience living in different climates .