You have a few options here to make some big improvements. 1. You could remove the wall that has the doorway in it. You may need to relocate your stove and range hood or you could have a range hood that you can see "in the round". You would lose those upper cupboards though. or 2. You could remove the other wall to the side of the doorway. This would then mean that your kitchen would open up to the living area but you would lose some full height cupboard space along that side. I also noticed that your TV is located in that corner. Do you need it there or can you relocate it to free up that wall? or 3. Perhaps you could flip your kitchen so that the breakfast bar is near the dining table rather than at the other end. The stove and range hood could then go at the end where the current breakfast bar is as well as upper storage cupboards. Having the kitchen open onto the dining area could be very nice if that's what you are after. It depends on the rest of the living area, too, whether you would like to open it up totally as well. There is a lot to play with here and it can be a lot of fun. I wish you the best of luck with your renovations.

brick wall so no option for cavity sliders gas heaters are already in that middle wall as marked, old heaters i think i need to service them as not sure when its serviced last also has two split aircons on both rooms on the far end no weather seals on entry doors, i can feel cold air is coming under some doors, where can i get the seals or is there someone who can come nd check all doors/windows and seal them tin flat room with not much space in between. I think there is insulation in the middle if not its very hard to do anything without opening up the roof sheets. We have double roller blinds on one side. No curtains on patio door(kitchen).

If you are happy with the walls as they are , its a huge cost and effort to just hide some power points . To a small degree , it will also depend what you want to run . Really power hungry appliances ( 2000 watt heaters etc ) may need new wiring , rather than just hooking into the existing wiring . But like bigreader , I'd look at coduit , extension leads ( if lower power use ) and even multi-boxes -- I have used individually switched brushed stainless 4 way ones ( about $80 instead of $10 beige unswitched ones ) and even mounted them to the wall -- they look quite classy and purposeful . And if all else fails , using furniture to hide leads is a good idea .

oklouise: I appreciate your idea. Sounds good. This is the access which is on the northern side of our lot. Access to the back of the property. The lot is E-W rectangular plot. The access upto the gate would be frequented by meter readers from the front of the property. The gate comes as shown after the down pipe with the hinge on the pole affixed to my wall while the other pole goes butting with the retain wall and as the fencing guy has told me he will put in non expandable grout to hold the pole in place and there would be a bare 5-10mm gap between the neighbour's wall and the pole. The gate would open inwards into our property so as u look into the photo the gate open inwards right. Also I could not gather the concrete bit maybe concrete language is hard for me to understand. i will ask my landscaper but if youcan shed some more detail for the approach that would be very much appeciated kindly. We are not planning to concrete but if that is a way then we can think. We are actually planning to put in thick liimestone steppers and decorative stones. Any other fair ways/ideas for landscaping on this stretch is welcome