I would replace single picture with 2 to 3 pictures that are vertical possibly over the headboard. Depending on the size, display them across your headboard so that they span further than the current picture, say across the headboard but inside the shelves. In addition you might want to consider some sort of lighting that you can attach to the headboard that you can direct down rather than thinking of table lamps. I think the shelving can work, but for me would be collectors of things and never looked very nice. If you're different than me maybe you could start with something low on that top shelf with just some small things on the other ones. Good luck

This explanation may help, Source: https://www.renovatorstore.com.au/blog/lighting-and-power-in-your-bathroom-the-simple-rules-to-be-safe/ REQUIREMENTS Zone 0: Inside the bath or shower. Any Lighting used here must have a minimum rating of IP67 (protected against immersion in water) Zone 1: Above the bath or shower to a height of 2.25m. A minimum rating of IP44 is required Zone 2: The area stretching to 0.6m outside the bath or shower and above the bath or shower if over 2.25m. An IP rating of at least IP44 is required Outside Zone: Anywhere outside zones 0, 1 & 2. Where water jets are not to be used for cleaning purposes, the general rules of BS7671 apply In addition to the above, if there is a likelihood of water jets being used for cleaning purpose in zones 1 and 2 a fitting rated a minimum IP65 must be used. Now that this has been explained, always make sure to purchase bathroom lighting according to these standards to make sure that your bathroom is always safe. You should also have this principle applied when you purchase other electrical devices such as heated towel rails, or a guide to where you'd put sockets in your bath for razors and other devices. This may also fix the common misconception that LED lights are not rated for bathrooms. Typical LED lights have an IP rating of IP66 which is more than the needed IP rating standard that bathrooms should have. - Not to mention you'd be saving a whole lot from energy bills in the long run.

Above the bath to 2.5m is zone 1, which allows IPX4 rated luminaires. I doubt there's many, if any decorative IP rated pendants out there (some quality LED brands would be). With 12V, make sure the transformer/driver is mounted up in the ceiling aswell. A good sparky could modify a 240v fitting into a 12v.

Hi oklouise The sad part is the existing bathroom is beautifully finished! This whole house was well finished and really well built. It was sad to have to demolish things that were so well done, but the design problems made changes necessary. The bathroom has porcelain wall tiles floor to ceiling on all walls and a white polished porcelain floor (slippery as all hell, and a mongrel to keep the grout lines clean!) is laid over a full 300mm+ of solid concrete, under which are all the drains. Outer walls are 200mm of reinforced solid concrete. Tiles on internal walls are over cypress timber frame with generally two layers of lining glued, screwed and nailed on - and there is way more timber in the frame than necessary. I think the builder (who built it for himself) thought the house would last forever and would never need to be changed in any way. Exact distance from external door to wall is 1.1m on both vanity and shower side. The door combination is 1200 wide and placed dead center. It's worth noting that 300m on the vanity side of the door is full-length frosted glass panel and it's possible to infringe a bit on that area if absolutely necessary, provided there's enough room for the door to swing safely (as it swings toward the vanity. I will take some photos now and share.