Thanks so much. I do have the touch up kit but even trying to rub it after a few moments doesn't negate the contrast. I will definitely try the walnut oil. Thank you again.

Can you post a photo of the scratches?
The scratches may only be surface scratches and not into the wood. Most engineered products will have some sort of manufacturer finish. If you are only scratching the finish, stain pens will not work (hence why they seem to just rub off).

This is only one of many. And also one I have attempted to correct. I could never recommend engineered hardwood-or least not this manufacturers product-based on my experience.

What you have here are surface scratches. A stain pen will not work for this type of scratch. How long has the floor been installed? You may be able to file a claim against the product through the company that you purchased the material from.
May I ask what you have been doing to create these scratches?

Lol! Living in the house. I have two dogs and 4 grandchildren. But none the less I try to be extremely careful. I don't wear shoes in the house and I keep the dogs nails as short as us possible without harming them. I grew up and have always lived in homes with hardwood floors and I have never had these issues. The floor is less than a year old.

If I were you I would dig up my receipt, contact the company in which
the flooring came from and file a claim for poor performance, scratching. The company should either send out their own representative (rep) or send out a rep from the manufacturer. The process will take some time but could be well worth it in the long run if you win.
If you wish not to file a claim your best bet on fixing this issue is to replace the boards.

They told me it's normal. Again I g\have had regular hardwoods my entire life and I have never experienced anything like this

On another note... A color fill or stain pen will not work on an aluminum oxide finish. It will only partially work if you scratch through the finish into the hardwood.

There are repair kits sold online if you wanted to venture in that direction. Couldn't tell you how well they work, I've read mixed feelings from reviews on a few items.

Scratches do happen. Request information on the product you purchased. Read the manufacturers warranties.

The flooring manufacturer is Mohawk

Sigh. Aluminum Oxide white scratches hit once again. The Aluminum Oxide is what is helping this situation. Aluminum Oxide is a white powder that is applied in layers over the floor. If you find the specifications of your floor, you will notice that they ADVERTISE the "7" or "9" layers of "tough Aluminum Oxide". Those layers contain low-end urethane that is DUSTED with Aluminum Oxide powder. It is then baked/UV hardened and then coated/dusted again...and again...and again.

That is the 'toughest' finish we have. Toughest meaning NO WEAR THROUGH....Sadly it does little for surface scratches. When Aluminum Oxide scratches, it scratches WHITE (just like the powder it used to be). And that is what is HIGHLY VISIBLE over DARK HARDWOOD. The contrast is what is showing up here. If you had a natural coloured floor, you would only see about half of these white scratches (reduced contrast = reduced visibility).

And the REALLY FUN thing about Aluminum Oxide finishes is...(dun, dun DUN) the do NOT accept more finishing. Actually they can but the cost is OUTRAGEOUS.

What you might want to look into is a finish pen that is made for Aluminum Oxide (not a colour pen...a FINISH pen). I don't even know if they make them...but that is your only option that would be low cost.

The next option (if you are determined to fix it) would be to hire a HIGH END flooring professional to come in and apply a new coat of finish over this floor. There are some EXTREME techniques that will allow a coat of new finish over this floor. You would need to move everything out of the house for a few days. The professional (who is trained in the technique and who is going to cost a schwack of money) will then abrade, prime and then coat the finish. The finish cures and you move everything back in (a few days later).

This technique is NOT fail-proof. It can go badly wrong. And if it does = need a new floor.

In short, the Aluminum Oxide that is so heavily over-sold as being the toughest finish on the market, is what is making the "fix" such a mess. If this had been traditional polyurethane you would see fewer white marks (you would have more scratches...but you would not be able to SEE them) and you would be able to repair them with a traditional "finish" pen.

Sorry to see this happen. Sigh. Aluminum Oxide strikes again.

Thank you everyone for all your suggestions and comments. They have been very helpful.

Any suggestions on how to clean the floor? I use a Mohawk floor cleaner that leaves a film and marks that looks just awful.

I'm a Shaw guy myself vs Mohawk. I sell a product of theirs that is very good for cleaning wood, solid and engineered and is also great for vinyl and ceramic floors. It's called Shaw Hard Surface Cleaner. We recommend it to every one who purchases wood flooring from us, have been selling it for many years. Even our City Hall purchases the product by the gallons every month to clean their buildings floors. Thus far we have had no complaints about a film residue left by this product. It's worth a shot if your current cleaner isn't doing what you need.

That's great! Thank you.

Sorry you having so many problems with new floors. Did you try to just polishe scratch? We have solid wood floors upstairs and they scratch easily too. But of course being in the bedrooms that minimize wear. We are not happy with floors because space between planks becoming wider as wood drying. I don't think it is engenered verses solid, I think it is more of Chinese products...

sofikbr the spacing between the planks might be caused by too much expansion gaping around the perimeter of the room.
When wood flooring is installed it is necessary to have at least a 1/4" space between the wood and the wall on 2 walls. During the summer and winter months your floor will breathe; expand and contract. Very normal. Too much of an expansion gap could cause boards to gap. Come another part of the year when it is cooler the gaps should close back up.