Has anyone used Vantage Magnum aluminium windows (see photo)? Is the cost difference between these and timber windows substantial? I'm reading it is better to get thermally broken aluminium windows for energy efficiency (while timber is already quite efficient) so is the cost difference still worth going with aluminium?

Hi. I suggest you ask builder to quote both types of window (timber and aluminium), but you need to specify the energy efficiency you are wanting, so you can make a better comparison. I have to believe there are varying degrees of energy efficiency in timber windows, same as there are in aluminium. In my house, there are thermally-broken, commercial aluminium windows and doors throughout and I am very satisfied with them. I hope this helps. :)

Quality of windows and glazing vary significantly.

annb1997 is correct with stating that you need to know the energy efficiency (U-Value, SHGC, etc.) you're wanting first. The performance of one timber window can be quite different to another and same again with aluminium. Then you add the glazing into it all.... again theres a many to choose from......

LesleyH is correct, Vantage (& AWS) are of superior quality.

I'd get the design done and work it out from there. In NSW we usually use BASIX which is an energy efficiency process. There are others that can be used as well such as NATHERS. Being in a bushfire prone area may also influence the window choices.

If you want timber looking window's maybe use timber?

If you want to save money save it elsewhere as windows are an important part of the structural build, actually they are now one of the most important aspects of design and energy efficiency.

We've just finished a build with AWS/Vantage commercial aluminium windows (white), specifically because we needed them to look like timber. They are not your standard aluminium window, very chunky and you can not compare the quality to Stegbar/the-like. I agree with MB Design- try and save some money elsewhere.

Thank you so much for your comments. My heart wants timber windows for our knock-down/rebuild but because we have a strict budget, I just want to look at all the options and of course save costs where possible seeing as so many factors of the total build need to be taken into consideration. Advice on cost-saving options will be appreciated! The other dilemma is timber flooring - solid or engineered? We live in Sydney by the coast and have allergies so def some sort of timber flooring is required.

I certainly appreciate your reason for looking at cost-savings opportunities with a new build. May I ask if you are owner-building or will you hire a builder? And, do you already have building plans drawn?

Solid timber floors are always a great asset. Australian hardwood is the best. Cypress Pine if you want a cheaper option. Could be stained/lime washed perhaps?

Most builds are built to strict budgets even $1m+ builds have budget constraints. Building a smaller dwelling is the best place to start to save money. Spent your money on higher ceiling heights (2.7 - 3.0 metres), good windows and doors, good insulation and quality workmanship, etc. Avoid sparkles and bling, buy classic fit out pieces that won't be unfashionable next month.

I don't know if hearing about others' experiences will provide you with ideas or options, but in our new build the plans were put out to tender to quite a few local builders. Oddly, only about five showed any sincere interest and another wanted to know how many builders were tendering quotes in order to gauge what his chances were of actually winning the job versus the amount of time he would have to put into the tender (I understand his position, but still...). The builder we selected was the one who judged it worth his time to look at every possible cost-saving element, and the single-most impressive cost savings was in his re-design of the roof. I hope this is helpful to you

All your comments certainly help. We are in the process of discussing the build with a design/construction company that has a good reputation. Based on our budget they are preparing plans from a design we like. The builder said that the house size/floor plan we want is doable for our budget but stated solid hardwood floors and timber windows will blow it out (i.e. engineered floors and aluminium windows will reduce costs). The final build cost and specs are still to be finalised by them so we are weighing our options re flooring and windows as ideally we would like hardwood floors and timber windows but may have to compromise on one of these or both. We are not building a large dwelling and have specified high ceilings as a priority (2.7m). Our main aim is to have a house with longevity in its fittings and fixtures and energy efficiency but it seems that to achieve this costs $$$ and we can see how easily a budget can blow out.

I hear you! We did it slightly differently as in seperate design team to builder, so in that regard the benefit was in seeing where the differences in cost were in the various quotes. (This is our last house and we are mostly retired.) I love high ceilings too, esp in a smaller house as it gives a spacious feeling. I don't know about engineered flooring on the scale of whole house. So, I take it you will you be on piers as you want timber flooring?

Does your block have any special excavation required?

It sounds like you are looking closely at things. What about the insulation? Is there potential to improve/increase it AND offset your running costs in future? on that note, how will you heat and cool the house?

Details like door knobs, drawer handles, door stops, electrical fittings are worth scrutinising to be sure you know exactly what you are getting, and if you want a different brand or something different, discuss up front until you are satisfied, because variations after the contract is signed sure do add up and can delay the build.

I'm assuming in a new build insulation will be within the walls and roof, right? Plan to install ducted heating/air con throughout so definitely want adequate insulation. I can see there is still so much research to do. We are allergy sufferers so no carpet either. If I have to choose between hardwood flooring and timber windows - the flooring will be it. Is it possible to source some of the fittings and fixtures yourself to eliminate builder's markup - or do they not take that very well? Will make sure everything is decided as much as possible up front to avoid delays and extra costs.

Oh, and is solar being considered in the outset, or maybe later on?

Yes, insulation is part of build. I was just thinking about your interest in energy efficiency. Insulation has an R-factor and it can vary depending on where it's being placed (roof, walls). Here in Victoria, all new homes have to be built to a minimum 6 star energy rating. I was just looking at NSW and it looks like thus far, that is not a requirement there (pls correct me if I'm wrong). My husband calculated that it cost us approx $50,000 to get to the minimum 6 star rating, and we will never realise that amount in any energy savings. More or higher R-factor insulation in roof and walls (and floors in your case if you are on piers) is one way to improve energy efficiency. You would have to do the calculations to determine if a particular timber window is equal to or better than a particular aluminium one, and vice versa. It is not an easy process, but maybe it would be worthwhile for you.

So when the building company reopens for the year, I have lots to discuss! The energy efficiency of timber vs aluminium windows and the cost difference, if there is one, will influence our decision. I'm more concerned with heating as we get lovely ocean breezes in summer and don't use air con that much. Our block will require a concrete slab to support a 2nd floor balcony and then piers for the flooring I believe.

NSW is also min 6 star. We use NSW planning's on line program called BASIX. NATHERS and other programs can be used as well but BASIX is quite good as it gives a minimum requirements only. Upgraded insulation for example could be requested to be included in the construction.

BASIX will spit out the minimum requirements for windows, insulation, tapware, etc to achieve SIX stars.

Insulation for external walls, roof and slab edge is only considered using BASIX. The garage wall if internal may require insulation as per BASIX. Remaining internal wall insulation isn't considered however.

Be wary of some window manufacturers as the aluminium frames are so crap that they may need to use double glazing to achieve the required U-Value's/SHGC/etc where better quality aluminium frames only need single glazing.....

The cost blow outs with windows can occur when you have non-standard sizes (especially heights). If you can manage to keep windows and doors standard sizes, you might find commercial aluminium prices comparable to timber.

The maintenance of timber colonial bar windows, plus ocean environment....aargh!

Also, you should do some research into alternate heating options. Especially if you are having a ground floor slab. Look into hydronic heating and thermal mass. Ducted air con is not your only option, especially if you say you don't need it for the cooling.

We didn't have the slab size to support hydronic unfortunately, we have put in electric floor cable instead that will run on off-peak only. We hope our new thicker glass and better insulation will take care of the rest. Will top up with a gas heater if needed.

About your question about sourcing some of your own internal fittings. It is best you discuss this with the builder early on. Usually, the builder's contract will specify an allowance for particular fixtures. However, some may specify actual brand and model of fittings ie taps, toilets, sinks, etc in their quote, and they may or may not allow you to vary this. IF you are happy with those specified fixtures and you think the allowance amount is reasonable, then you can go with it. Otherwise, any changes or variances need to be discussed with builder, and it is very important this be discussed upfront and before any contract is signed. Some building contracts may also disallow some variances. In any event, carefully read the contract so you completely understand what you are agreeing to, and discuss any and all parts where you are not in agreement so these issues can be ironed out. Also, and this is my own experience and opinion, but I advise specifying in the contract the completion date AND if the build is not completed on time then what happens (consider that you may be paying interest on your mortgage, be financing a bridging mortgage, etc. and/or you may also have already sold your home and then have to pay rent until the build is finished).

If you are in agreement with builder to source some of the internal fittings yourself, there are any number of suppliers and sources to investigate, and this might be a good way to keep your budget in check. There will be Houzzers who are experienced at this and can provide you with ideas. Just keep in mind that you will have to have all fittings READY and ON SITE when the tradesmen require them, otherwise you will be holding up the build and that is going to cost YOU money.

We bought all our own fixtures and they were omitted from the contract. The builder allowed for labour to install only. I had a year to shop sales, so was able to pick up fixtures at reduced prices. Storage did become an issue (toilets take up lots of space!!), Winnings were great and held onto all our kitchen appliances right up until we needed them.

I'll warn- this was a massive task. Exhausting. Before I even started I made sure I had a very clear picture of what I was trying to achieve. Houzz was great for that. Plumbing, lighting, tile shops can be totally overwhelming if you don't have a picture in your head. Thanks to Houzz....my tile shop for 3 bathrooms took 30mins!

Thanks Annb and Mel N - I would like to source my own fittings and fixtures as much as possible as I have a good idea what I want already and I will discuss this with the building company. I'm fairly organised and love to haggle and feel buying the fittings and fixtures is one way I can save on the build and not feel I am totally compromising. I can store items at family members' homes. We will def look at the contract carefully and make sure a completion date is specified. Houzz and the people offering advice here are a godsend when learning about this whole process!