Agnes, kicker concealed drawers are generally fitted into 150mm minimum kickers with a push catch release runner, which you kick with your toe. Runners are 25mm high, and the kicker drawer would be a solid base coinstruction, so factor in a 16mm base, 10mm top and bottom clearance combined, the 25mm runner, and you would end up with a 49mm high internal drawer box in a 100mm kicker, and almost 100mm in the 150. These drawers are really only useable for oven trays etc, although as they are used often, this is a impractical storage system to utilize daily. These drawers are factored in when limited storage can be included into joinery, and the cost for installation is quite high. The time to install onsite is costly, and level and even floors are a must for them to work. As for your floor, definately floor first so if joinery is ever modified the floor is consistent and no infills are needed. It is also beneficial for leveling, and sealing the floor surface entirely. Go with this option.

HI Rozzor My partner came up with a cunning plan......regular drawers, but attached to both sides (facing the cabinet, on the inside) are tiny see through "bumpons". They're basically a tiny mound with sticky back. You get them from any glass company. They use them for attaching to glass that goes on top of tables etc so the glass isn't sitting directly on the table. Only we used them on the kitchen drawers so that when they shut its a dull thud instead of a bang, slows down the close in effect. Laugh, ex-husband came over to look at my new kitchen and asked if I had soft close drawers!

In my early twenties I designed kitchens for my mother and two aunts (Uncle built them and they worked), but when it came to designing my own - had to fit a constrained space and no possibility of extension - I chewed my lips for ages - like Nicole, I drew and measured ad infinitum, and used graph book walls, views etc. I did one extra thing - which I think worked - I listed all that I wanted to store, and tried to analyse how I liked working in the kitchen. Some things I had to settle for because of space (such as a smaller dishwasher) but most of it has worked. We have a corner pantry, which I (and the cat, husband a bit larger) can walk into, but have not put small appliances in there - they sit in a large drawer beneath the main working bench, which also works well. It all looks good to me Nicole and thinking carefully about needs and how things work in advance usually results in something you'll be happy with. Good luck!

hi MB, I agree with your Builder, 1200 wide is too much - One metre wide is the normal standard (this should give you 900mm inner width) .. option A is my personal preference .. BUT, the 445 wide drawers will probably only give you 350mm inner width.. ……….. 350mm * 2 drawers = 700mm inner width ….. versus 1 drawer across of 890width= about 800mm inner width - AND, it will 1/2 the cost of runners … just use an inner-divider for the bottom-drawer (his vs hers) and, divvy up the 2 top-drawers .. .. a 315mm high drawer is pretty deep - it is deep enough to store a 'deep fryer' etc... but, may not be deep enough for some bottles standing-up inside-the-drawer.... ? .. . how much height will you lose? ( it depends on door-profile, runners etc ) ……………. I used a 'shark-edge profile' and lost valuable height ….. so, I recommend that you use a ' j-profile' instead... … 150mm high is a bit deeper than a Cutlery-drawer- so, okay for odds-n-sods. hairbrushes, makeup etc ....,. I am assuming that the Plumbing will only affect the Top Drawers under the basin all the best, ursula