Just to throw another option into the mix – look up Marmoleum for your kitchen floor – it's a modern version of linoleum (not vinyl!). It comes in the most amazing range of colours and looks (about 300 to choose from – from very bright primary colours through all the secondary and tertiary colours, marbled or stripey or plain), has all the green credentials (97% natural components like linseed oil, wood flour, jute etc; nearly 50% recyclable content and 100% biodegradable – it even smells great when it is first laid), extremely hard-wearing, easy to clean and maintain, comes in either sheets, tiles or planks and it is quiet to walk on. It is used in hospitals and schools because of it hygienic characteristics and doesn't give off volatile gases like vinyls. We have put it down in our new kitchen about six months ago and I love it. One of the things I love most is how quiet it is – no clicking, clanking noises as people walk on it. It sweeps clean easily, wipes clean (for spots), mops beautifully every now and then and looks wonderful. Highly recommend it!

Definitely agree that tall windows and doors are an asset, and a fantastic selling point for later on if you decide to rent or sell. They keep with the feeling of space, which feels luxurious. The only thing is, with our Australian summer and all, keeping light out, depending on the direction the windows/doors face, may be of concern. Incase you were considering this point early on, too, just wanted to let you know there are block out long drop (240mm) roller blinds available. Best of luck with your decision - can't wait to see the end result!

The traditional solution is to introduce lots of soft furnishings like rugs, curtains and plush sofas. There are also padded acoustic panels that are commonly used in noisy cafes (often fitted to the ceiling) which help with cafe noise. There are also perforated plasterboard acoustic sheets, and acoustic plywood panels if are happy to do some building work. Engaging an acoustic engineer will help if you want to approach the problem scientifically. Best of luck Dr Retro of Dr Retro House Calls

Yep, underfloor hydronic is the most effective form of heating you large-volume spaces with high ceilings. As hot air rises from the floor, heating the occupants, not the entire space. It's also a very comfortable form of heating, particularly for people who suffer from dust allergies or asthma. But hydronic systems can be very expensive to install. It is also uncommon in Australia, so can be difficult to find a specialist who is experienced in designing these systems. There are a few different ways to design an underfloor heating system. In-slab underfloor heating, where the hydronic tubes are located within the concrete slab. The slab is a huge mass. This very large thermal mass creates thermal lag, leading to very, very slow reaction times. Meaning the floor takes a very long time to heat up when turned in, & a very long time to cool down when turned off. Think a day or two, for the full reaction time, not an hour or two. This slow reaction time is only appropriate in climates that are extremely cold, in Europe & North America, where the heating is left in 24/7, for the entire winter. Unfortunately, due to the inexperience of many installers in Australia, this is often the method of underfloor heating installed here, & it's totally unsuitable to our variable winter climate. You have a warm winters day in Melbourne, & you're forced to open all the windows, as the floor is still radiating excess heat. This can often also be an inefficient system, as the floor losses heat into the surrounding earth. The slab must be very well insulated from the ground. In-screed is a far better option. Where insulating boards are placed on top of the slab, the hydronic tubes are attached to the boards, & a topping screed is poured over the system. This system has some thermal mass, but it's much lower than the entire slab. So the reaction time of the system is reduced. It is also a better insulated system, so heat losses are minimised. It is a more expensive, but better system. Thirdly, is hydronic systems for timber floors. which also uses aluminium defuser plates under the timber to spread the heat. Only certain engineered timbers should be used, as many timbers will warp. As Paul mentioned, timber is an insulator, so they'd is not an energy efficient system. The system is only as efficient as it's heat source. The options are either a gas boiler, or a heat pump. Gas boilers are cheaper to install, but consume more energy. So heat pumps will be cheaper to run, & better for the environment. My choice would be a heat pump. Make sure it's a heat pump specifically designed for hydronics, not a heat pump designed for domestic water, or the pool.