@urj123, Cricky!!! I knew you were going to ask that, after I looked at the sample I had that was full strength ha-ha.....AND I re-read you post and you wrote quite clearly 1/4 strength!!! I will return to the store, AGAIN, ha-ha and ask for 1/4 strength. All jokes aside, I think 1/4 will probably be real nice, as I didn't dislike the full strength but too creamy for the ceiling. My daughter actually painted all her ceilings the same colour as her walls with Hog Bristle but all the experts seem to say that a ceiling should be white or at least traditionally its always been white and I like the look of that too. I won't be back in town until next week but I'll keep in touch when I have the sample in my hand. Hubby and I are hay contractors and are at our most busy time being in tractors for many long hours but we are nearing the end and then I can take a breath and turn my focus back onto the home. Actually have 80mtrs of edging or capping tiles around the veranda to do and then the same amount of concreting to do on the 1.8m wide veranda and then we can get the colourbond roof on the house and during the cooler months, we can start to lay the limestone bricks, so there's plenty to do on the home!!! I have photo's attached in an earlier post. Best get to bed, more hay baling to do tomorrow. Cheers, Barbara

Hi kristymacd, after changing my mind many times we went for a built in 1700 bath! Mostly as builder and tiler thought it would be easier to slope the floor properly and I liked the idea of the slightly larger built in compared to the 1590 back to wall. I’m sure a back to wall would’ve been possible and been fine, it all just got a bit hard and I knew both would look good. And I don’t think a back to wall would be any harder to clean than a built in - with a built in you have the hob and tiled face of the bath and back to wall there is the floor either side of the bath - same same! Here’s a pic of ours, not totally finished yet but really happy with it.

adding furniture always gives a much better idea of available space and bed 4 is much too small for a living area although bed 3 without a wall and wardrobe could be used for a small TV room to open up the long hallway but i've moved bed 2 to make a MPR, added generous ceiling height biw in every bedroom (to include general storage as well as personal items) and simplified the bathrooms and the wide vanities can be used for linen..assuming that there will be a restriction of total floor area to block size i've kept this variation of your plan to 60% of the total area and think highlight windows on the south and tall wide windows above 750 off the floor on the north will allow plenty of northern light and still allow easy furniture placement, the MPR could have a western window to make the room more comfortable in cold weather and external blinds to exclude hot afternoon sun and shade blinds on the outside of the verandah would screen the sliding door but i would omit the external laundry door and the "pantry wall" as shown in Dreamers photo of my own pantry can be included inside wall cavities and needs only about 15cms depth for very useful storage

Hi, I’m very late to this conversation so I apologise for butting in. I refer only to your console table in this pic and you said it looks bulky. I think the issue is the vase and the candlesticks are too similar in height so they add bulk and not enough contrast. I would remove the candlesticks altogether and place the vase offset in front of the picture with the small dish in front again. The picture would be even better if you changed the frame to a white or black with a white matt surrounding the picture, similar to the frame below. Also the lamp casts a yellow light which would be better if it was white. Either it’s the globe or the shade. If the shade, change to an off white or very soft grey. That’s my two cents worth anyway. Hope it helps 😏