Thank you all! Fiona, the tv wall mount would be very difficult to move..this would be a last resort. Old house = asbestos = wanting to minimise major wall alterations! As for putting the chairs on either side of the kitchen door, I tried this before, and did just again, (I'm a sucker for punishment) and it probably would have been a good look, but the front door opens into the chair on the left side of the kitchen door/opening (on the left side when faxing the kitchen). There is a very limited space here, and the door swings through most of it, it is kind of dead space. Although a long narrow table along the wall was my vision for this area - a place to pop keys etc and put some much needed decorative features. The only other variation I can do is to angle the chairs slightly from where they are now, so that they angle in towards each other (with the one closest to the tv facing slightly away from it. There's only two of us and when we have people over we generally aren't watching tv (we don't watch much at all) anyway. So what is the overall verdict, after all that? Do you think we can still achieve an ok look with the configuration we have, perhaps with a different couch and all the decorative features previously mentioned? Or do I have to sell my chairs too? Although not keen to do that, I would if it means having a room I'm happy with. Thanks again! I have felt very supported by you all during this very stressful weekend of managing a decorating crisis!

You can see the bush from your back door or you’ve heard from ‘Bill’ down the road, who thinks that the street might be classed as being within a bushfire zone – so what now? The bushfire zone & processing can all be a little confusing at first, especially if you haven’t tackled it before; but relax, there IS a way through it. Building even in the highest level bushfire zone doesn’t stop you from building, it just impacts & limits what your material options are. Have a look at this outdoor living, deck & patio cover we created at West Pymble. This construction actually ticked pretty much every box. Development Application through Ku-ring gai Council There is an easement running right under the deck The property is classed as BAL FZ – to put it simply that means we couldn’t use any timber within the construction So can you tell? Does the finished result look so far different to what you had in your mind? Being classed as a BAL Flame Zone (FZ) doesn’t mean the end of your outdoor living dream. To learn more about this particular deck/patio cover outdoor living area in West Pymble, click through here to go through to the case study. Essentially there are 3 first steps that you need to take to find out IF you are in a BAL zone & if you are, what zone you actually are. Step One – Confirm if you are in bushfire prone land This can be done quickly & for free a number of ways. If you have recently bought the home, dig out all of your paperwork/contract of sale etc & look for a council document titled ‘149 (2)(5) Certificate’. This will have a section which advises if you are located in bushfire prone land. Alternatively, check online via the NSW Rural Fire Service website. Just plug in your street address & it will come up a yeah or a neah. Easy; however & remember that this is only step one. Step Two – Confirm your BAL Zone Huh?? What’s a BAL Zone I hear you ask? This is the biggest piece in the puzzle & without this we really don’t know where we are heading. For instance, it might be obvious that you are in a BAL Zone, but there might be a house between you & the bush, so the level could be either BAL 29 or BAL 40. In terms of construction this could be the difference of timber vs no timber for your deck or being able to use light panels or not within your patio cover. So this changes the aesthetics, feel, materials & cost of your project. BAL = Bushfire Attack Level & it is a calculation based upon the amount of radiant heat which may affect your property. The higher the level of radiant heat, the more protection you will need when you construct. So what are the BAL zones? Have a look at the table in thelink to get the full picture. BAL LOW is the lowest bushfire risk & BAL FZ the highest. Your BAL Zone is determined by a number of factors where you live including, the vegetation surrounding you, the distance of this vegetation from your home & the slope of the land. Whether you are planning the construct via a Development Application through your local council or via CDC (Complying Development Certificate) through a PCA you will require a written BAL report. Some Local Councils can provide this service or even local private bushfire consultants are available as well. If you are putting it into the too hard basket, we are here to obtain this report for you, so don’t stress. Step Three – Material & Design Selection You have now found out your BAL zone, so you can understand what material options are available to you & get the best design for your outdoor living area. This blog will help you understand your design options. Essentially, the higher the BAL level, the greater the risk, thus the more limitations there are on the materials you can select for your patio cover or deck outdoor living area. We’ve created the tables in the link to try & keep it simple & clear to understand – however, keep in mind that this is very generalised & you will need to seek further advice prior to proceeding with any construction.

My first comment -- how come these 'updates' seem to go on-line on a Friday afternoon , and within 20 minutes there are 6 'the greatest upgrade ever' posts from people who are never seen on Houzz - and yet they know within 20 minutes that the post is up ? Kate is the only person I have ever see post anything else . But the main comment -- with that 'double-step' look around the gutters ; the recessed entrance ; etc , it is obvious that the base is 1950's era -- it's obvious in both the before and the after . The only difference is that the before embraces it ; the after is pretending you can't see it . Then there's that peaked roof add-on -- apart from being the same coloured render , it doesn't gel , it is too try-hard , even things like the overhang is a lot of work for very little benefit . IF the base had also been sympathetically updated with some similar features , it might have worked , but here ( not surprisingly ) it looks like a cardboard add-on to a 1950's house . And then the flat-roofed bit is weirder still . It literally has the style of a container or one of those portable outside rooms you rent for $60 a week . Apart from the floor area , I'd prefer the 'before' any day -- it is clean , pleasant and honest , updated in an intelligent way .

We have the same - low ceilings but I console myself that the house is easier to keep warm in winter! Photo 1 is our bedroom fan, which I don't like - it feels intrusive in the room. Photo 2 is our fancy "low ceiling" fan, which we love. It doesn't announce its presence like the other one and is super quiet and efficient. Photo 3 is the remote for the loungeroom fan if you are interested in details. I highly recommend it - it was expensive at $400+ but worth it