Personally, I'd prefer a WIR as opposed to a large "wall" of cupboards. I like the ability to open a single door and see all my clothes, rather than opening and closing multiple doors for various bits and pieces (e.g. pants in one cupboard, shirts in another). I think the WIR would be cheaper as nice cabinetry for the second option could be expensive. And I think the WIR would be better for resale value. Also, it's just a personal opinion, but the example photo reminds me of a gym locker room. A nice gym locker room, but that's the impression I have from all the cupboards with the bench in the "middle".

Hi Sue, depending on how much design time you need we could do this for between $3 and $4500.00 .

Hi paulaj51, you have so much to work with and it looks like you like organisation . There are so many things to consider before working out the layout such as: Is this all the clothing to be accommodated? What style of fittings do you prefer?- ie luxury, practical, economical, DIY? Is your priority space maximisation or aesthetics? I'm going to make an educated guess and assume this is all that is going into the walk in other than sweaters and shoes. I'm going to assume you are aiming for organisation, space maximisation. The recommendations are easily applicable to off the shelf products you can DIY or high end hand crafted timber, so let's look at the layout... Note# it is possible to get some systems that provide adjustability in the height of the hanging sections, so to space maximise, given there are no dresses or long hanging show, I wouldn't put any long hanging in, but you would need to be sure if you do that, that you can either adjust it later if your needs change, or allow for some now so that you are not restricted. 1 Drop all hanging to the floor- whatever length you need from the floor up. Why- because you will never have to bend again- the lowest you will have to reach is waist height- very beneficial especially as you age and also you don't bump into things as you bend! 2 Decide if you need drawers at all- I believe sweaters are better on shelves than in drawers- you can see all of them if the shelves are designed properly they will stay tidy( see notes below on shelves) . If you want drawers, decide how many and probably where you have the baskets is best opposite the entry so you have maximum space to step back to open. Why? Again- no bending because drawers must be below waist height so unless you really need them for smalls like underwear, you'll save bending, save fossicking for items lost under the top sweater and save money. Also in a walk in no drawers mean no space required to step back. 3 From your photo, you have all the lineal hanging you need so all you do is put all the shelving above the hanging space, unless you need drawers in which case I would add a section of double hanging on the left side where it will be less intrusive than anywhere else because the shelving is shallower than the hanging and so closes the space in less, you can see this in the photo below . 4 Make sure you buy shelving that is adjustable so you can change it as you like. You'll probably hardly ever do it, but you'll get maximum benefit when you're first filling it how you like. You can afford to pack those shelves really tight if they're adjustable -say for shoes, knowing that if at a later date you have less shoes and more bags you can simply spread them apart. See how tightly packed the shoes are below- 5 Now the trick about shelf design. Shelves get messy when they are hard to keep tidy.They're hard to keep tidy when.. They are the wrong width The width of the shelf doesn't fit the items stored because we like to fill the gaps with haf jumpers, and half jumpers become a confusing pile of mess. in general go for width in 30cm(12") increments -60cm (24") is a great width for sweaters. If you want to do a section for shoes- make it the width that fits them which is usually 50cm for 3 pairs or 70 cm for 4 pairs or smaller if you need to but the wider the better rather than cubbies which are really restrictive and useless if you want to use them for other things And the wrong depth Shelves should only be 36 cm deep, that's the front to back measurement. This way , nothing will move around on you in between your closet cleanouts. Don't worry about the perceived loss of space, organisation is more valuable than what equates to a lost pile of treasures at the back of the shelf. The extra benefit of this is- your walk in will feel massively bigger because the deep stuff is low and your elbow room is increased because the shelves are recessed back-very noticeable improvement! Again visible below. The very top shelf can be deeper though. A layout as suggested here will give you an enormous increase in your storage and all of it will be where you can see it, reach it, and you'll never have to get to the floor again. If you'd like more info, you can sign up for my newsletter at http://www.cleverclosetcompany.com.au/ Good Luck, Sally

Okay Kate, to quote my client..."Go for it!!! Will be the best make over Yet! " So the view is out through the sliding door that you see from the doorway into the bedroom. I felt the entrance to the room didn't do the room justice, so we are creating the new wall there which will become the back of additional shoe closet and travel section. The custom mirror on the new wall on the landing creates a sense of arrival when you get to the top of the stairway, and pause before entering what will be a lovely retreat. We will move this door across a little so that the room isn't completely exposed before you enter from the top of the stairs I really wanted the bed to face the view but the patio sliding door only gives space for a 350mm deep bedside table- it's a little compromise, but worth it to have the bed next to the window and view. Then, opening up the wall to what will become the TV sitting room has the bed centred to that new room. Then the Walk in robe will be accessed by a new doorway and with the additional storage room we've gained from the landing, there'll be plenty of space for shoes, luggage and linen. The new doorway position for the walk in means the client doesn't have to walk all the way around the room to get to the walk in wardrobe which saves a lot of walking after coming up a couple of levels from the laundry. In the video, the wall and door to the luggage room is removed so you can see the storage :) This is what I love about site visits- the client just wanted me to replace the existing wardrobes, and when I saw the potential in the room and threw these ideas around they were at first a little blown away by the change I was suggesting, but now they've started demolition and super excited.