1 All items and boxes must be labelled, BUT all the destination rooms should also be labelled (except maybe kitchen) because removalists don't know from the first second which is "Kid1 Bedroom" etc. In the case of furniture, it is really worthwhile having a rough floor plan worked out beforehand where you want the furniture pieces. This way removalists can do their job without you having to stand there giving instructions. 2. If you have a big enough car, bring all the important things like coffee machine, boiler, cups, drinks, lunch supplies, vacuum cleaner, as well as documents, cameras, jewellery by yourself. Fill your Esky or camping fridge with the cold stuff from the fridge. 3. Definitely de-junk before you go. OR designate a space in the old house for things you WONT take, and deal with that later. Between now and your moving day, try to consume as much as you can from the fridge. 4. Pre-pack as many things as you can before moving day. Don't skimp on wrapping paper for fragile items. Once we had to move on a really, really hot day. We got everything unloaded into the empty double garage first, and then later moved things into the house. This helped the house stay a lot cooler. Have a good move!

Firstly...are you sure they are jarrah and not som other more exotic timber? If you are fortunate enough to have a genuine 1932 built cottage I say "Don't Do it!" Just look at the beautiful timber in that floor! It would be sinful to paint it. I have a 1924 cottage with beautiful hoop pine floorboards all from the day it was built. My suggestion is to have the boards sanded and polished. I would not even dare go near them with polyurethane. I have turned back the clock and used the methods of the period of the house...a mix of pale boiled linseed oil and kero. Put it on with a mop or a deck mop or a wool mop leave it soak in. Re-do and leave it soak in,,,( you won't get patches...the floors will just soak it up.) Third coat, add a bit of turps to the mix as a white ant deterrent. Then, when the floors look like they've soaked up enough, get a big old fashioned string mop...if you can find one...or use a deck scrubber and old towels...or even a wad of new ones...100% cotton...its worth it, and rub off as much of the surplus as possible...wear sox so you will notice when the sox do not get oil stained anymore. First go is a long process but you will be really pleased when the floors have had several "drinks". After that you could get just an ordinary floor varnish or oil or just a sealant. Some of the modern wood treatments are really good. Then, every so often do the boards over with your "Oil Mop". You will never find timber like that again and, in my experience, it adds to the value of the house big time. Do what you like to any gyprock and plastered walls but PLEASE love your floorboards and any natural timber...especially from that era. I've been in this old cottage for 32 years. Everyone wants to know where I sourced the "new" floorboards", and who did I get to make my silky oak windows! Hope that helps.

If you can get under the floors then consider just insulating... we added underfloor insulation, its very easy. There are panels of what looks like polystyrene and they just fit up between the floor joints and squeeze in and stay there. We just bought it from the local hardware store. You don't need to hire anyone to install it or screw it in or anything. You just push it in. This is a similar product, there are many brands. http://www.foamex.com.au/polystyrene-products/expol-underfloor-insulation I read that underfloor insulation gives you a similar improvement to the ceiling being insulated. We have certainly found it made our bedroom much warmer! Well worth it. Insulating under the floor will be a better way to stop the drafts... the timber floors will move and shift and anything you fill the gaps with will crack and fall out soon enough.

They might be Baltic Pine? What is the age of the house? You could do a google image search for "Baltic pine floorboards" and "cypress pine floorboards" see what the grain and knots look like- do either match with your boards? Yes, you can make them look more like the white washed photo. We have cypress pine boards and recently had them sanded and refinished with Bona White as we wanted to ensure they had no yellowy or orange tinge and make them look more contemporary. They were very orange from the original oil based varnish. We're very happy with them, although we only had one coat of white and it may not have shown up as well as our sample boards. Two coats would have made them more white. The Bona White system was chosen because it is low VOC water based, so doesn't have a strong odour, compared with solvents. Sample boards, showing two coats of Bona White top section, one coat of Bona White bottom section and a varnished board with no stain. This is on Cypress floorboards.