Hi Our company ‘Australian Sun Energy’ and ‘Warmboard Australia’ offers a full service for hydronic heating buyers including design, heat load requirements, heating systems and installation by our hydronic installers. There are many types of hydronic systems available, the 2 most common are in-slab and in-screed, in-slab heating the Pex piping is installed at the bottom of the concrete and attached to the reo mesh at 200mm centres, this system uses the concrete floor as a heat mass to retain heat for a longer period of time, pluses for this system are, once heated it only requires the boiler the add a small load to keep it at temperature, minus is that it takes a long time to heat up to temperature 5 days in some cases and can be an issues in Australia because we have such variable weather even in winter heating the house even on a warm days requiring the windows to be opened. In-screed the Pex piping is installed on top of the slab at 150mm centres then a screed of approximately 65mm is placed on top, this gives a faster heat up time but less mass to store the heat, minus is it’s more expensive to install due to 2 concrete pours. If your wanting polished concrete floors either of these systems will be suitable. Hydronic radiators and low to the floor wall systems heat the air space not the floor, as the heat rises from these units it heat the room from the top down meaning you can have a hot head but cold feet when it should be the other way round, pluses are usually a lower supply and install cost, minus are higher energy costs to run due to high water temperature and other factors. All gas boilers and heat pump heating systems specifically designed for hydronic heating are modulation systems meaning they adjust themselves down from peak load demand for example, 32kw to down to a low 3kw if this is all the heat required to keep the system at a stable heat. For more advice call Peter 1300 137 407

Hi eddie6trey if you're after a traditional look in flooring you can't beat floorboards, either in solid timber or an engineered wood floating floor. Solid timber is more expensive than engineered wood but has the advantage of being able to be refinished several times back to its original appearance. Both types come in a large variety of board widths and lengths but solid timber in wider boards runs the risk of cupping if there's exposure to high humidity. Both types come in a wide range of colours but mid to dark tones generally create a more traditional look.

Look at Sydney Mixed Blue Gum or Tallowwood perhaps. A hardwood floor will look awesome no matter what species is chosen, you can't really go wrong.

In both pictures , the upper cabinets look a cream and the below bench ones look white ? Might be a flash or similar , because that doesn't make sense to me . I hate grey at the best of times , and this kitchen has gone for the blandest shade of grey for the walls too , and I'm not sure if there is a grey tinge to the tiles , but it looks like there may be . Like dreamer , I'd go a reasonably colourful rug , and 2 or 3 brighter coloured benchtop appliances , because I suspect most potential buyers will want to change 1 or more aspect anyway . The other thing is that you said the tiles are right through the house -- tiles are sort of expected in a kitchen , not in a lounge or bedroom . So if you do a nice floor in the kitchen that really suits the space , not only will a potential buyer be thinking they want to completely redo the kitchen , but it also highlight the tiles elsewhere too .