Second attempt was with Windex and same paper towel, which cleaned the two honed surfaces up pretty well. The lighter Raw Concrete seems to have been easier than the Sleek Concrete. And finally, to get rid of that pot scratch I used a non-scratching Scotch brite pad (what we usually use on dishes) with some diluted Soft Scrub. This one took a little more elbow grease but I'm satisfied with the results. My opinion is that comparing the two surfaces (honed vs. glossy) there is a marked difference. That being said, I currently have tile from 1978 and grout lines that are so deep and narrow I have to scrub them out with a toothbrush. I guess it's all a matter of perspective. We decided to go with the Raw Concrete after all, and like others have said, just expect that it'll take a little more work and show a few more stains. But then again, isn't that the whole point of concrete? That it looks industrial? I hope this has helped someone. If anyone is interested I'll try to post some more photos and real life feedback in a couple of weeks once ours is installed.

OK, no wonder the photo looked weird. The kitchen supplier would be able to do the whole thing for you, so you don't have to try to match anything and the hole for the basin could be cut into the bench top anywhere you want it. The only problem is the plumbing, the cheapest way to relocate that is by extending any pipes and that takes internal space from your vanity. Glad you have lived with the semi-recessed sink, I've heard many others complain. Have you checked out basins though - there is a good range of sizes and shapes now. I bought an off the shelf-vanity-for my main bathroom, but it was still made up fresh for me so I had the option of the colour, bench top colour, size and style of the basin and where I wanted it for no extra charge - have you double checked on that? Check out Laminex's range online and phone them for samples - they are very happy to do this. I went back to Laminex to save money on my kitchen reno and used the Diamond Gloss Polar White. It always looks stunning and I really love it now. Have you also checked the existing vanity will come out ok without damage to the wall tiles? Also is the floor tiled under the vanity - that will present problems for you if it has not been done. Theoretically it should be, just depends on whether corners may have been cut. Good luck with it all - oh to not have to think about budgets!!

Hi Watchedpoppy, in short the answer to your question is that it can be whatever you want. If you want the Dekton Quartz Face surface on the underside of your overhang and your tops are at least 24mm thick or thicker then all you need to do is make this requirement clear to your fabricator / Kitchen manufacturer and they can be made this way. Your tops can be fabricated to have face material on the underside; it is a dearer option to do this but it can be done and does look (and feel) a lot nicer. The other option used by Stonemasons is to have a Dekton edge returned down to the desired thickness of your top as a rim and then have a smooth white product like Eco-Cell set in underneath behind the rim, flush with the bottom edge. For the other part of your question about how much of an overhang can you have on a breakfast bar? Well surprisingly this Reconstituted Stone material type is actually very strong. As an industry standard for an unsupported breakfast bar is around 300 mm overhang; which will give you a 900 mm deep benchtop. The kitchen photo that you have used above has butt jointed waterfall end where this construction when used at both ends can allow you comfortably push this overhang out to 500 mm - 600 mm depending on the thickness of your stone and how it is fabricated. Some Island Units have cantilevered tops extending our 1200 mm to 1800 mm long where we make structural supports for the top that are hidden within the construction of the cabinetry. Once again to answer your question, if you desire a large overhang, then discuss this with your Kitchen manufacturer; where if they make custom cabinetry, they should be able to design and make for you exactly what you want. Hope this information is helpful. Regards Malcolm

I've long been concerned about the formaldehyde in laminates, which also continues to outgas after installation, but until recently questions about it were met with a blank stare. A few years ago I was pleased to see a sign in the kitchen section of Masters making a claim regarding that (I think it was the first time I saw the E0 rating?) but when I asked for information about it no-one knew what it meant and eventually they suggested I talk to their 'supplier' which turned out to be the hardware supplier who knew nothing about the laminates. Very disappointing when retailers of better safer products fail to take the opportunity to educate customers and promote those products. Good on you Anne Marie for wanting to ask intelligent questions. (I could start a whole new thread....)