I'm sure there's plenty of confusion about the why's and wherefore's of house orientation. The reality, as I have recently discovered, is that if want to live in an area that is older, developed, close to facilities, you take whatever orientation the block actually happens to be and do the best you can with it. Unless you're out in the country, or buying something in a new estate, you may not get a choice of orientation: we certainly didn't. And yes, our garage does have the best aspect - because there was nowhere else to put it - it had to face the street - but we live walking distance to shops (think of the petrol saved on not having to get into the car), we've got clerestory windows on the west side so no afternoon sun issues, and we're assembling a collection of sails for the south side, where the deck is, to provide shade from the late afternoon sun. Oh, and skylights for the kitchen. No, not ideal. But the location is, and the designers have worked around the constraints of orientation. And that's reality for a lot of us.

what happened to the old column? i think you need to add a corner cabinet (900 on the stove wall and 1050 on the sink wall) with doors hinged across the corner provides 300 + 450 wide doors and better access to the corner for storage of big appliances and to allow more space for the drawers to open, the 1000 fridge space allows an air gap and two 750 wide drawers next to the 900 wide stove, i've kept the 1200 gap between benches and island and added a cabinet (opening toward the sink allows for a 600 wide 450 deep space for a bin) then two 750 wide drawers and the built in microwave making a longer island and extra drawers next to the dishwasher ...in my experience, if you're having custom made cabinets you only need to specify the size of appliances and sink, the general layout of the room and your preferred arrangements and approximate sizes and the cabinet maker should measure the site and custom make the cabinets to suit the space with minor alteration to allow for any obstacles eg like making the pantry cabinets narrower to allow for architraves around the entry door..and it's more comfortable to walk around if the pantry doesn't overlap the architrave or encroach on the doorway

keep in mind that my plan has single external walls and all the inside and outside walls are 10cm thick to make drawing easier and the depth of the verandahs includes the eaves, adding a brick veneer would use more space and given the choice it would be lovely to plan for a covered walkway and raked ceilings in the living areas and this is a very basic gable roof but there are lots of more exciting/expensive roof options to consider

1.4 x 1.4 is pretty pokey , and no , I suspect an 820 door will be too wide unless you swing it outwards , which is just weird . If it swings inwards , even if it at 90 degrees to the toilet itself , there will be almost no room for a person , a WC and the door 'swing' . Most doors are at the end of the room , the WC at the other end , and that will make it even worse -- if the WC protrudes 50cm from the wall , and your door is 820 , you have 8cm in which to stand ! Setting the WC 'offcentre , the door off-centre the other way gives a bit more space , but add a basin and you have an obstacle course to negotiate . Is there any way you can take the length to around 1.8-2 metres ? A width of 1.2 works , 1.4 might sound better , but with only 1.4 of length you are pretty much stuffed . .