you pay for what you get I think ..for our house we had nice shower heads and tapware.. for our beach house I chose a cheaper alternative the shower head rail is steel and plastic in conspicuous places lol didn't look properly when I chose them lol works okie just cosmetically not as nice.. don't have to pay top dollar mid/top range is okie.. my plumber went with me so I got his trade discount ..

I will start with an admission - I have read nothing of the comments. However I have helped a friend design a compact laundry. Here was how we did it. 1. Start with a list of everything - and I mean everything, include pegs, those little lint ball things for the washing machine, buckets, mops, vacuum, airers etc - that you want to store in the space. 2. Break that list into where you want to store it - drawers, wall, or cupboard - and then rewrite the list as cupboard, drawers, wall etc.As you are doing this, see if you can store those items elsewhere - we added a ceiling airer in the bathroom using pulleys. Also mark any item that a special storage gadget might help. We added to the back of one door (I think they were custom made 925mm and 2300mm high) a hanger for the vacuum hose, and in the cupboard a hanger that slides out for the brooms and mop. 3. Go measure the space you have, and be exact - if the measurement is 1457mm it is 1457mm. Also, see where you might "borrow" space from. We managed to add another 650mm deep, 750mm wide cupboard by swapping the two bedrooms around, and using space in the guest bedroom wardrobe. 4. Draw up a plan, and be really specific. If you think you need four drawers and a top mounted sink then plan that way. Whilst you are planning think over whether you want top spec and not hide it, or to hide it behind really nice doors. We used reasonable quality from Bunnings and modified because it was behind doors. Also, don't be afraid to "borrow" something from a different zone. In my laundry I used a round kitchen sink, because I didn't want a really deep laundry tub so I could use the room underneath. 5. Go and find a really good quality cupboard manufacturer or builder and ask them to look over your plan and ideas. They may tweak to assist, but remember you know your space and what you will be using it for better than anyone. In my friends case, she had a brother who assisted and made a super looking set of doors. As to resale value, that depends on who you want to buy it, but I have one piece of advice - don't go for the resale value, do it because that is what you want. In my friends case she turned her laundry into the bathroom, and then turned the oversized bathroom into a very natty study. Good Luck.

Jenny Yun, you need to check back on your original plans/marketing brochure. If they show a separate shower to a bath that is what you thought you were buying. A builder can't change from having a shower and a bath to having a shower over a bath without contacting the buyers. Get your solicitors advice if the builder has made this change without going through the proper channels. A Certificate of Occupancy certifies that a home can be lived in. It is a requirement of most local government councils that an occupancy certificate be issued prior to the purchaser of a home taking occupation. If I were you I would be getting my solicitors to confirm about the Certificate of Occupancy before moving in and asking some questions about drainage and mould growth under the bath. Your solicitor should represent your interests, and knows what the law says, so they should be helping you. It is such a pity you have already settled - I hope it is not too late. If there are a lot of apartments with the same problem you may need to consider a class action if you can't get proper rectification from the builder. Best of luck, Dr Retro of Dr Retro House Calls.

Hi How2Girl, I appreciate your follow up! The Reece document is good - thanks - I wish there was something concrete in the Standards though. Worth notiing is that a shower over the bath needs the same wall-sheeting details as if it was a shower base. Also wall framing in the bathroom needs to be done to AS 1684.2-2010 Residential timber-framed construction - Non-cyclonic areas (Which the James Hardie 'wet area design book' is based on) Very frustrating that the Australian Standards are not readily available - ie FREE- or at least, latest copies at local libraries. How are we meant to build to standards when they are inaccessible. Another factor in determining the overall quality of the Australian construction industry Also what I've found frustrating in this instance is that other trades in my small town are unwilling to agree that the work is of very poor quality - there is an unstated 'brotherhood' at work. So Im going to have to engage an independent Building Certifier, probably from out of town. Of course,the cost for this will come off the builder's fees on a pro-rata basis for below-par work