Enginered oak flooring problems
seanagh10
6 years ago
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Engineered oak flooring - which thickness to choose?
Comments (1)The engineered flooring has a thin veneer on a particle or mdf substrate which is more stable than real timber as far as expansion etc due to temperature changes. Using engineered floor provides a great way to insulate the floor, although they cannot be sanded like traditional solid hardwood flooring as the top layer you see is only a veneer. In some cases it is a paper laminate image of timber and not real at all. The 6mm flooring feels different to the 4mm underfoot, it feels substantially better and doesn't have the same click clack sound that gives away the 4mm flooring as being artificial. 6mm flooring is well worth the additional cost. Good luck. ML Design...See MoreSoild floor and engineering floor which is better?
Comments (8)I can only give you my experience. I've lived for over 20yrs on real hardwood floors. And every time I stand on any kind of laminated plank it looks and feels like cheap plastic. There is just no comparison to actual wood flooring. Timber absorbs vibration, feels pleasant underfoot either barefoot or shoed. It looks real, because it is. Timber planks are 20mm thick, laminate ones are 5mm. Laminate flooring looks like a printed piece of plastic because, well it's very similar except for the top 2mm of veneer stuck to it. It may fool us in brochures and magazines but I've never once been fooled by laminate in person. They can give it all the fancy names they want like 'engineered' but at the end of the day it's all the same stuff. Laminated veneers on cheap plywood. But not one person on the planet has ever fooled that it's a real floorboard. Does timber scratch? Absolutely. So don't put a piano finish on it then. Stick with satin and matte finishes. It shows up the marks a lot less. Does timber dent? Absolutely. But those dents become part of the character of the home over time. I recently lived in a home with floorboards over 100yrs old. They had dents everywhere and yet those boards just looked lived on, they didn't look terrible. Does timber suffer water damage? Yes of course. But before you worry about it, go and check out the thousands of 100yrs old hardwood homes sitting on flood plains in this country. Every single one of them has been underwater more than once in it's lifetime. The original boards are there, strong and unfazed. Unless you plan to flood your home for weeks on end the occassional spill and overflow won't damage the timber at all. I'm a quality over quantity type of person so of course I'm going to rate going with the lifetime option over the rip it out every 5yrs option. If I had the money for hardwood I would not even consider plastic planks....See MorePre-finished engineered oak floor-adding sheen/satin finish after inst
Comments (10)Hi Some floorboards can have a finish applied as they come raw whilst others cannot without work. It depends on the brand and finish. I suggest you speak to the installers and get hold of the manufacturers rep to ask about the finish if it is not readily available at the point of sale. You should be able to just have the floor lightly buffed after it is installed (ie scratch/rough up the existing polish) to create a purchase for the new polish without actually sanding down to the timber. You do need to know what type of finish it is ie oil based or water based on the original boards as they can sometimes react with each other if you change. Then your sander can apply the new finish. Cheers...See MoreHuge engineering problem to resolve
Comments (9)Hi Doug Sorry, but my first question is why are you commencing construction without the engineering a) resolved and b) approved? If it has been approved then it is a variation and you are quite within your rights to question the engineer as to why the changes are now being put forward compared to the original approved drawings and what are the alternatives. If he has made a change to the original approved design then there needs to be a very good reason he hasn't issued revised drawings to both you and the drafty before sending anything to the fabricators. If he has sent revised drawings then I would be asking some very hard questions of my drafty. If it has not been approved and is being done on the fly then this method of construction is fraught with danger both from an approval and $$$$ perspective by proceeding without a fully resolved design. Your draftsman should be integrating the engineering into their drawings and discovering any clashes BEFORE final drawings are released for approval by the local authority and working around any issues. If there is an approval in place then there has to be engineering drawings around. Additionally, I certainly wouldn't be sending any drawings from an engineer direct to fabricators without them having correlated with the architecturals and without the drafty being in the loop. There is a breakdown somewhere that needs to be fixed otherwise it is going to cost. If i recall correctly, this is a floating concrete cantilevered floor? I would be surprised if anyone on here is going to be able to offer an engineering solution without seeing the whole design and/or loads. In truth, I would be having a chat with your engineer and see why the change or engage him to find a solution to what you now have. I would also be putting aside the design priority and focusing on what is going to work from the engineering perspective. That is the priority for this type of build. There are always ways to accommodate protrusions by making them a feature or covering them with a false facade/beam. Would need to see elevations to offer suggestions. As to the height I would suggest you post some sections of the whole room with elevations. Cheers...See Moreseanagh10
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