In one of our past homes, we had one section next to the stove that was butcher block, but the rest reg. There is def upkeep to one & doing a small section is much easier than a whole top. Wilson Art & Formica have some really great new laminate choices---for example, if you like granite look, you can get it with these but a matte finish which reads better in a country kitchen.

You can if the kitchen joinery is a dark enough black, the walnut is stunning. Presuming your timber floor is if any would also be mid toned, the black joinery would simply be a personal accent, and would work best if it's included in small furnishing details elsewhere. I think this would be the same as people with timber floorboards wanting to have black or iron furnishings, including sofas and coffee tables, that wouldn't be dismissed at all, so I think this has merit. I would however keep colour to a minimum to avoid a confused cohesiveness. There's quite a lot of black and beige being done in modern design, because it's organic and can striking and warm at the same time. It's quite architectural and high end. Go for it. I would love a black walnut kitchen!

Feast Watson kitchen oil is 30-60 % petroleum naphtha. This maybe the reactionary problem. Ok time to fix. Sanding back starting with 120 grit and go through the grades...180, 240,320. Sand with the grain until you feel that all the blemishes are removed. Sounds daunting but the first strike with the sand paper is psychologically the most difficult. I'd stick to the Tung oil base and use Organoil danish oil. Brush on rub off with a clean rag. Let dry, sand back lightly, this time with 400grit and reapply oil and rub off. Let it cure for a couple of days and you should be good to go. Livos Kunos oil is also an option and would only take a 120 grit sand, apply, rub off. Let that dry for a day sand with 320 and reapply and rub off. The only problem is it is an expensive oil.

i don't understand all the concern..(obviously won't be cheap or easy and probably needs an engineer to design the frame) but the firebox probably weighs no more than 200kg (less than a bathtub full of water and a bather) and the flue is suspended from the ceiling or a power flue can be directed through the wall or floor ..the challenge will be finding the most suitable brand and model (preferably zero clearance) and keen tradesman to organise the steel frame as the timber shelves are only decorative not structural ...we have a 250kg corten steel courtyard gate that is only suspended from steel hinges and they not only hold the weight above the ground the door also has to move...consult the manufacturers who should be able to give more specific advice