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Hi, I know this is a long time after your first notes but I can't help but comment. I love the idea of the shallow wall that goes to the ceiling with a ladder. We lived in a home where the refrigerator was outside on the porch due to lack of space. With very few cupboards, I did a couple shelving units built between studs like that. I measured the height of each shelf away from the one above it with my canned foods. Turned out great and it is amazing how much those 2 little shelves could hold. I also want to say that I don't know building codes in your country but I agree that you should get at least 3 other quotes. With a concrete wall you can put electrical in that area. You can just have them use metal, electrical conduit. It does show (toe kick works, too!) but it is very non-invasive and should be cheaper. I really love the kitchen that Edith Martins posted. It is such a little gem. I can just picture myself working in that lovely place. Go slowly with your renovations. Listen to all thoughts and suggestions. In the end, this is your money you are spending and your home, so be sure to do what makes you happy. Lastly, there is NO box that you have to work within. Look online, watch Tiny House shows, go to architectural websites for ideas. Do YOUR thing. And, please post pictures when you are done! Best.

correct measurements are the only answer...for your new floorplan you need a room (without any restrictions that would measure at least 2400mm x 2000...it's always possible to squeeze in some minor variations but only if it's worth the cost in convenience, improved value of the property and actual cash outlay.... the front door entry foyer would be lost, the new bathroom doorway wastes more space, the linen cupboards would be too narrow for anything except a few towels and sheets (that can easily be stored in a suitable vanity or bedroom cupboard) the bathtub is gone and you would have spent about $20,000 for a bathroom that is not better than what's already there?? ...the computer programs that we use are called 3D Home Architect and my version 4 is no longer available to buy but i believe siriuskey may have purchased her version recently? these programs do make the plans much easier to see but you must start with accurate measurements and an understanding of spaces needed ...start with a space about 800 x 800 mm for a toilet, 900 x 900mm for a basic shower, 500 x 900 for a single handbasin 1500 x 500 for a double handbasin then add in at least 900 x 900 for a doorway (including space for the frame and space to walk through...same for cavity sliders!) and then you'll need space to walk around in front of the toilet and shower and handbasins ......unfortunately with the plumbing and space restrictions i don't believe it's possible to do more than widen the existing shower space by rearranging the entry wall.(NB you'll still need to spend $5000 to $10,000 for demolition, carpentry, new waterproofing, tiles, shower, vanities wall cabinet, taps, plumbing etc..forget the linen cabinet and store linen in a new vanity and toiletries in a wall hung mirror doored cabinet and keep some width in the entry foyer (minimu 1200 wide) ...removing some of the non structural wall in the kitchen should be the cheapest improvement for the kitchen and add space for a small breakfast bar but removing the end counter would lose valuable counter space that could also be used for a pantry ...before making any decision you need to think about the reason for the changes...are the bathroom, laundry and kitchen in need of immediate repair, is the unit for your own use of needing improvements for rental or resale...?? always happy to draw up your plans but have to nag again about the accurate measurements...try measuring each separate room (ie shower, toilet and vanity, laundry and storage from wall to opposite wall in several places in both directions, ignoring all the fittings but include separate measurement of the diameter of the hot water heater.

Custom joinery is comparativley more expensive than the Ikea pre-fab options as you are paying somebody for the labour. You are also paying for their skills and experience to measure up correctly, to make it work with your crooked walls (no wall is ever straight and perfect), and to fit it exactly to the space it was designed for, without any crooked gaps that collect dust and spiderwebs. You also are paying for somebody to go back to if something sticks or jams, or doesn't work the way it was intended to. To make the cheaper options look neat and complete you do need good craftsmaship skills to install and work out how to get it straight and neat, but as it works on standard modules it never fits perfectly into the space, there are usually gaps. For instance their kitchen modules are designed around a 200mm module. If the kitchen space you have is 3300mm, then you need to figure out a way to cover the 100mm gap. With custom joinery it is designed to fit perfectly in the 3300mm space. If you can't assemble Ikea units perfectly you don't really have anywhere to go back to if you stuff it up. If you don't have these skills then you will need to employ somebody who does, and at the end of the day you may not save a fortune. Best of luck, Dr Retro of Dr Retro House Calls