Hi Chris Just following up your request for further info between double glazing and/ or filming single glazing Etc Your more than welcome to call me direct here in Tassy for a more detailed info. that’s not possible via this comments section . But just to highlight a few things for all interested readers . Firstly , it’s important to understand the “ Technical” differences between both single & double glazing ( particularly the different types of additives/ manufacturing processes etc that’s goes into making glass that can make a difference to how they perform technically and the ability to do what you want it to do and then theirs the choice of aftermarket window films . Whether the choice of an aftermarket window film application is considered to either single or double glazing to solve one or more problems, one must understand the pros and cons as to the window film manufacturers guide lines and their recommendations as to what type of film should be used or avoided considering the different window components and the different types of glass that goes into making the final window product . Secondly ; and equally important ; one must understand the differences between radiant heat and convection heat . Unless the glass is specially treated at the glass manufacturers or has an added solar film coating applied ( such as suitable window film ) when compared to clear glass and whether as a single glazed or a double glazed unit ; will NOT stop all the direct RADIANT heat through the glazing . Double glazing , or even triple glazing , works on the same principle like a thermos flask ; to reduce / slow down the transfer of CONVECTION currents ( hot or cold air temperatures ) from one side to the other . Radiant heat and convection heat are two different things and requires different ways to solve the problems . Double glazing is designed to reduce “convection” air temperature from moving from one side to the other , of the window . Other additional manufacturing processes can improve both insulation and heat reduction abilities . You mentioned a ceramic film and the infra red ( heat component ) reduction. I was wondering why a ceramic film was mentioned compared to say either a semi or fully reflective film choice !!!! Don’t get confused with all the advertising thats on offer via sales reps pushing their product as being better than other film options unless you fully understand both the advantages and disadvantages. One must compare apples with apples when comparing any technical data as many companies don’t all stick to a common standard tech specs making it difficult for customers to compare and often confused . The two main considerations when choosing a film ; particularly when double glazing is installed ; is the :- total solar energy reduction ( SER) and secondly the amount of absorption of heat ( SEA ) into the glazing . These are the two main factors I look at when heat transmission is a problem for a customer . The SER is the amount of the overall reflected away from the glazing and the SEA is the amount that’s is absorbed into glazing ( glass ) as this will effect how much increase in the overall temperature of the glass Particularly the panel which is tinted in a double glazing application which is normally the room side . The main problem if the glass temperature increases , it will increase the chance of glass breaking due to thermal stress .( gets too hot it will eventually break ) . One also has to take into account the quality of the glass , particularly most being made in Asia now .where quality may be an issue compared to Australian made glass .!!! Basically You need high SER with the lower SEA as an ideal choice . From my experience with over 40 years in the window tinting industry here in Tasmania that the fully reflective film I often use ; particularly on double glazing ; is a number one choice ; then secondly the less reflective MEP films neutral based film either in the suggested medium grade as generally the two films the manufacturers suggest in their guide lines As single glazing goes , between the full reflective or secondly the darker neutral ( a cross between the medium neutral and full reflective films ) I’d be interested in see the data on the ceramic film choice for me to compare to out of interest . The three films I’ve mention are by no means the only choices but many other factors comes into play that need to be taken into consideration . Much more on the subject but hope this may offer some interest to discuss further . Protek window tinting & blinds (Tas)

My current kitchen has black subway tiles with white grout and everyone loves them. I bought my house with the existing kitchen and have changed the accent colour of the light shades and accessories from red to green in the last year (photo is pre green!) as I love retro mid bright green. Herb plants and glass containing cut herbs from my garden plus cheap black metal indust chic shelves that house lovely green china items also help soften the tiles. I would ideally change the benchtops from white laminate to med rimu type wood and steel, go for a darker grout for practical reasons and change the cupboards from this grey/dark brown laminate to lighter wood (not scandi white type though - I think is now getting dated and is to me a very cold style and not practical). I have my own style, love colour pops and I would best describe it as eco retro boho industrial chic - eclectic. Go for your style and if its not your forever house - think budget and what will be easy to update. I think subway tiles work well for updating and are classic but perhaps think colour instead of white or black as well and also grouting colour - it makes a difference.

Hi Siruskey (just found the thank you button) Nothing is in place - it is conversion of a small bedroom. The WC was placed where it is - and was partitioned off as you have drawn, in an earlier version... decided against it on natural light grounds. i like it tucked behind the door - the bathroom will be first room coming down the hallway from the front door. The link is exactly the type of bath I am thinking of I think i would try for something like 1500 x 750 size In the house design, there is a completely separate, attached to the house, outside loo / powder room, to be the go to loo for the garage band members /outdoor gatherings / during days working out in the garden and anyone seeking maximum privacy ! Keeping the shower behind the vanity - all tiles - no glass is appealing (not a fan of squeegeeing) 1200 seems deep enough? As long as 750 gap beween bath and shower is enough to move through easily enough. The bedroom in the old house has been lived in for 20 years and the bed has always been in the wrong place. The bulk head shown above where the two new small windows are, is where the old built in wardrobe will be removed. I have never been able to put the bed on this 4th wall - have tried it on all of the 3 other walls and it was always "wrong" - not sure if it was feng shui or not. The bulkhead is to manage the symmetry of the ceiling that has a deco ceiling rectangular panel. Partly my motive to take space from the bathroom for the BIR is to preserve the symmetry. I am trying out the 4th wall as location for bed, as the wardrobe is now storage with temporary curtains other than doors. It has the "right" feel about it. The ceiling panel is longer parallel to the window - so for a BIR taking off the "length" of the room feels better, than from the width, even though measurements are similar. What amazes me is how everything in design & planning process is connected to everything else... Fresh eyes from you (and oklouise) has been invaluable to sort out my head. .. and I appreciated your understanding of the J&J principle for the upstairs bathroom.. I think I will stick with it :)

Thanks all for taking the time to offer your suggestions which are great. @siriuskey how tall would you envisage the nib walls to be? The ceiling is 2700 high. In both your suggestions I would need to alter or close in the window as it is a large window that sits above the bath. Do you think this would be a costly exercise? The house is brick veneer. Also love the idea of a sky light! @Kate @siriuskey I didn't realise you could have a door to angle like you have drawn. This seems like a great idea :-) @oklouise Thanks for your suggestion and def worth investigating. The house is steel framed so not sure if possible to recess the sink in the toilet room, but will check it out. This is the current layout for your info. The door only just clears the shower screen.