What is that on the end of sink base cabinets?

I've just measured our passage in our open plan house and it's just under 900 and works really well, why do you think you need 1600. Sorry the bulkhead you mention is that a wall to conceal the stairs, can you sketch.

Should the downstairs Bathroom be linked up with the entrance, this would be a much nicer larger space, and better access to that bathroom from both the house and garage, you could have doors on both sides.

Sorry that's the down stairs passage @1100.

Just starting my computer to do it, it hot and slow like me at the moment

Here is the idea, leaving you to consider doors to garage and bathroom to work with the stairs. But I think it's a good idea to include this bathroom in the house, with a powder room available for the desperate rushes cheers

Just wondering why not an open staircase in timber?, it would certainly make the entrance look and feel bigger.

could a staircase start beside the toilet turn right and then right again with landings at both points?

Oklouise could draw that for you my stair skills still need honing Ha

I have just played with the stairs

The underside of the stairs above the entrance doorway can be gyprocked to look like the ceiling, and the other sides of the staircase open to the entrance (how high do you have that second landing at

That's a very good storage space under the stairs next to the front door?

Now that you have that extra length in the entry, you could have a lovely side board/table with a large mirror or art work above it, it would really make the entrance look special.

this will give you an idea of what the entrance could look like with walls or not wall colours aren't a good example but should give you some idea cheers

Just keep in mind that with L shaped stairs you only get one landing to break up the length of the stairs, L has a long and a short, where as U shape has two landings which shortens the length of stairs to make them less of a fall hazzard cheers

there's not enough width to have the two 6m wide garages and stairs with a double landing without sacrificing the position of the kitchen which is already only 2m wide and overlapping into the living area...although there's usually enough "leftover space" for some storage under the stairs, the best way to understand the stairs is to forget the leftover space and have exactly the same space upstairs and down and then add a hallway width where you want to get on and off the stairs (hopefully with access to other rooms as well).....what is the width of the block and the required set back each side and is it possible to reduce the width of the long garage at the rear?

The list of measurements given say that the kitchen is 2500? and garages 6 & 7 meters wide, the stairs take up some space from the 7m garage. The passage is a whopping 1400. the kitchen Island can/could be changed to suit the large lounge as shown By moving the sink & DW to the back wall or into the Island which could then be moved across into the kitchen space

several HOUZZERS have suggested northern living areas so here's a reversed variation with option to add some northern windows for winter sunshine... i've included structural support for the front balcony with a covered entry porch, a simple gable roof and a few other variations and you could also consider raked ceilings with scissor trusses for the living areas

Yes please, I still prefer the other entrance which includes the powder room as it makes a more open entrance which is important for such a big house, The entrance?stairs and powder room should all be included in the one rectangle

obviously we're obsessed so updates are always welcome and the extra hallway downstairs is to separate the bathroom from the foyer and allow the caveman to move between garages without having to go through the formal entry

Yes please I still like the other entrance which includes the powder room, it's more spacious which is what you want for an entrance. You would need to go with the "L" shaped stairs. can you re check the measurements

Love your house, we also live at the end of a cul de sak and love it... very much looking forward to what you and hubbie come up with

my obsession comes from realising that plans are the most important part of the build and this is the cheapest time and method to test ideas and it's very disappointing to discover there could have been a better way when it's too late to change...another critical issue is that this is a very big house and it would be useful to consider which variations might save money without losing the best of your design (eg my suggestion for the structural support under the front balcony and accessing the same balcony from the master creates a roof for an entry porch downstairs and omitting the front balcony off the master gives unobstructed views from the master and a loo with a view but??...make a list of good and bad for every detail so you don't include anything that won't be a vital part of your new home

Did forget to mention that some of the Garage space will make great future Accommodation for extra income/teenagers or a Granny flat, with already having a bathroom it's perfect.

It's good to have a plan and don't forget that the garage doors can be replaced with windows etc, might be worthwhile looking at garage doors with windows in them for helping to get more light into the garages

To get this (all) resolved, fundamental aspects need clarification. Firstly, site conditions/data - accurate data about the boundaries, neighbouring context, and levels. These are critical constraints that can be creatively exploited and negotiated. Secondly, the desired requirements and some idea of the client priorities. 2x double garages that is creating a squeeze on the residence entry is arguably imbalanced spatial resolution, but ultimately that's something for you guys to work through in regards to what "wins" as the priority over the other........... I'll let you in on a (trade) secret. You best don't design outside in, (but you need to know/establish detail to be able to) ..... Rather, flip it and work from inside out and enable the building form to be malleable until further down the track........... It's like here you've got a whole heap of it "locked in" and then upon review are stuck on the stair which have been left to resolve until after other things and then trying to get it to work with minimal room to move or flexibility.......this plan, unresolved to your particular satisfaction reflects that the design process taken has missed a critical aspect and hence fallen short - "so close, but so far" if you know what I mean........So what to do? I would say/suggest that further info/ understanding the site conditions/context would be helpful.......First thing i do when designing? get the critical information sorted. First "lines" put down? if it's a renovation you get the existing conditions established and super accurate. New build (like this one) - you start with anything relating to the brief requirements as in HOW the spaces are to be used ie dining table, lounge, sinks, vehicles etc....and get the relationships working in context.....the LAST aspects to lock in are the walls, after fit-out, after windows....Why do it this way? Because you get (spatial) outcomes that are relevant/customised to (a) context and (b) specifically client brief needs/choices/decisions and it forces deep understanding and working through the individual and collective function and relationships of the various elements and not just popping in a space of XxY dimensions to (maybe) suit a particular need. This way maximises/balances efficiency and also the potential of the living experience/quality of the home......it may seem more complex doing it this way, in a way it is but in another it is actually easier because you have more flexibility/options available to achieve certain requirements...........if you really "need" 4x car widths across the front then that's your call and I'll never tell a client what they should or shouldn't have.....but I will endeavour to understand inherently how they wish to live and clarify what is more and less important before then moving forward with making critical dimensional and spatial decisions on various scales/details/levels.......the point I'm making is that you can achieve certain "functions" with arguably infinite various, but you have other aspects that you cannot budge. What design does is deal with the relationship between these two - It is naturally a bit of a juggling and shuffling exercise and an organic process that too often (I see) is simplified to a linear process that results in imbalance and arguably missing opportunity/potential on the value/quality of the overall end result........you've got a fair amount worked through here that you are happy with which is great. But looking at this from an experienced perspective, upper layout of the living/kitchen/dining could be thrown around/flipped/freed to get a much nicer stair/entry set-up, as well as some rationalising of that rather generous and (arguably unnecessarily restrictive) lower level set-up......A house of this scale shouldn't feel tight ANYWHERE, particularly not the entry and at the moment the scaling of the main spaces are out of whack..... and that's the (sometimes dirty/gritty) process - push/pull, give & take....not straight forward, not black&white or right & wrong and ultimately requires a compromise and understanding to find that balance....exactly like marriage yeah ;)

Totally agree that the entrance needs to be something more important "the promise of things to come". I have already suggested that the downstairs bathroom be included in that space and shown that. The kitchen does need to be looked at to work better within the space and could be moved across the room or just a re work.

How wide is the upstairs passage 1400 x 13800, 1400 is extremely wide

I relate this house to a Queenslander built on stilts etc and the under house was used for cars/caravans/laundry/WC. They would have both an internal access and exterior. Any site plans to share?

I haven't read through all the posts so this might have already been covered, but you would also need to consider the clear space you need to provide over the stair - 2m minimum height above stair nosings.

With the U-shape it looks like you have room for some kind of storage cupboard opposite the bathrooom door upstairs. If you pushed the stair back into an L-shape that cupboard would disappear, and the clear space requirement might even encroach on the fridge space.

Have you considered utilising a local professional building designer to achieve your dream home? Money well spent, to create a functional home that you will enjoy living in.

Ha! Spot on Janelle - this is (sadly) a general problem/issue in the industry and community......so often we see on these forums people struggling with a problem and throwing out the question/dilemma to the general public for help to solve. We then have suggestions/opinions/answers thrown into the mix which may or may not be relevant/helpful and then people are left not necessarily closer to resolving.....and partly it's due to missing critical information/data.......A floor plan is not just a particular functional arrangement of spaces/walls/doors/windows etc.......it (should be) a representation and resolution of a person/couple's/family's home living experience at a particular place/site. To do this it involves multi-layered balancing of "wants/wishes" against available/viable budget within a particular physical context. Without understanding this, it is reduced to a hit or miss process for people trying to wrestle with it and sort it all out for best result on their own - to achieve true value for money (for the project investment the upfront design resolution involves problem solving underestimated in it's complexity, which generally, a professional will be best positioned/experienced to guide/assist with...

Yes Paul, I have worked in the Building design field, and know the process well. How easily a wonderful residence can designed that reflects the client's personal style, ticks all their needs boxes, be built to budget, and has low running costs. Be designed to suit the site, etc. etc.

If you employ a good designer you won't need to be losing sleep over how does my stair function. Money well spent for long term enjoyment.

we've successfully employed professionals for many different projects but the problem has always been that we first needed to understand what we needed (to suit our climate, lifestyle, structure and budget) because when asked that question there's no free time to consider lots of different options ...the professionals can usually make good suggestions and refine our ideas but sometimes we need to fantasize about a range of different options to discover that some things are just not possible, affordable or realistic and that's where HOUZZ can offer the opportunity to test out lots of ideas so homeowners can have a better understanding of themselves before they employ a professional ...and, it's always good to see the professionals offering simple practical suggestions along with all the amateurs

we look forward to seeing what you discover, best of luck to you

yes oklouise, I hear all that - absolutely yes it's all about clients understanding/working out properly what they need.........and it's great to be able to seek comments/thoughts on Houzz from a broad range of backgrounds/experiences......the issue though is when it gets into territory where (from my perspective) clearly experience and professional skill will help resolve the problem most effectively (such as on this particular one) that it's therefore appropriate to suggest this the advised way to go.......I suppose I see frequently here capacity for designers to be able to "cut to the chase" most effectively, but of course this needs to be done in a manner underpinned by a thorough understanding and establishment of what the client needs in context, and yes very often the client will require more time to work this all through.........I however still see our role as relevant in that part of the process though, and not necessarily having to "wait" for that to happen, because ultimately as professionals in this position (i believe) have a responsibility (as part of our role as a consultant) to educate people appropriately and thoroughly so they can develop the skills to be able to consolidate their decision-making most appropriately for themselves and the project - by the end of the journey, I find my clients are rather quite the experts!..........this however involves a collaborative approach, egos are shelved and an intimate working relationship, which is very different from the approach (that some designers work to) which is essentially selling a "product" or particular end result, rather than a service....significant difference, and again, horses for courses ;)

thanks Paul, we need supportive professionals and clients need better understanding of the processes

One helpful way to compare the U and L layouts is to start from your total rise. With 3100mm floor to floor, you need about 17 risers of roughly 182mm each, which means 16 goings of 240mm or about 3.8m of run before you add a landing. The L shape uses more length but less width, while the U shape needs room for two flights plus a landing, so it is worth running the numbers for both layouts here: stair design calculator