No trend for tile height really. Just determined by budget.

A tiler will charge say $90 per square metre to lay plus cost of tiles at say $40 per square metre. It can end up being quite a bit of money.....

It also allows for you to change the colour in the bathroom just by painting the walls

Full height gloss tiling can reflect a bit of light around and make the powder room seem bigger, which can be important if it doesn't have a window. Full height tiling also means that the walls never need re-painting so there are pros and cons both ways. Think about llighting, reflections and space when planning a powder room.

Best of luck

Dr Retro

of Dr Retro House Calls

It’s just a personal thing but I hate full hight tiles. It feels cold and impersonal. I also feel like I’m in a dingy, smelly public toilet. Half height or even just for the splash back, skirting and floors.

I like the half height, gives the room personality.

Here is my beautiful toilet with the window.
Lol

2nd pic I am doing the cara tiles with white herringbone subway tiles and charcoal grout with charcoal floor for my main bathroom.
This bathroom is right next to the toilet- so I wanted it the same.

My main house is concrete style tile which is in my hall way leading up to the toilet.

Please decide what I should go for the single toilet if the tiles r to be 1200mm high.


Would u go 1-

Cara tiles left and right with charcoal floor with the back of the toilet herringbone white tiles.

2- cara tiles left and right with the charcoal to run up the back 1200 and the floor?

Or 3.

Someone tell me i can’t think anymore lol

Xxxxx

With a small room you don't want to be too busy. If you decide to go full height then option 2 - continue the charcoal floor tiles up the rear wall behind the loo, and around the window to the ceiling, with the cara tiles on the side walls would be dramatic and not too fussy.

If you decide on the 1200mm height I would keep the same wall tile consistant on all three sides, for the cleanest look, and I would probably go for the Cara tile to achieve this as it is simple, classic and timeless.

If the cara tile is a manufactured tile, and not a natural stone, make sure that your tiler is aware of the pattern repeat, and doesn't lay every tile the same way. An offset tiling pattern can reduce this risk, and make it easier to disguise the repeated "vein" pattern in your cara tile.

Best of luck,

Dr Retro
of Dr Retro House Calls

I agree with Dr Retro, keep it simple and use the Cara tile, you could do full height behind the toilet?

something like this and forget the other walls as there's no need to tile

Left side will have a basin as u enter so I will need to have tiles on that wall defiantly I would imagine?!

Hi Jodie. It's a small room so I'd go for your option 2 and tile full height to the ceiling. This will provide a link with your bathroom and not be too 'busy' in the small space of the powder room. Tile the walls to the ceiling to make the space appear bigger than it is. Best wishes

Echoing Dr Retro's comments, think of the powder room as a secondary element to the main bathroom. These decisions can be overwhelming so when it becomes like that, pause & take a moment to understand and clarify what you like and the choices made to this point. This is your decision to make and you can do it and the advice/opinions thrown at you will vary so you'll have to filter them. I'd take cues from the bathroom but it doesn't need to necessarily match perfectly, but understand it as a smaller scaled space that detail/finishes/extent need to adjust accordingly. So, perhaps, best to pick just one tile option for the walls in the small space, particularly if it's only half height. If it's full height then possibly you could get away with herringbone on the back wall following suit from the bathroom, but arguably only if it's full height. The other option you could do is actually no wall tiles and just do a little touch of tiling above the basin. Sometimes less is more - herringbone is (back )on trend at the moment, but trends come and go (and come back again eventually) - so maybe given the 1200 height option is what you connect to & love (nothing wrong with that - always trust your instinct) then work with this confidently and then understand best result form that will be to consolidate/ simplify the palette of materials in this particular space - hope that helps & good luck :) PD

Full height tiles will give sterile look, whilst leaving some plaster will allow some warmth and personalization.

Powder room should echo bathroom but not need be a mini replica.

You can keep the high end feel of the bathroom with side walls tiled to ceiling, or start bringing the look down to also echo the rest of the house. Half tiling both side walls I’m not sure how that works with the bathroom look, is it a new style for house or will it echo other rooms/hall.

Take the floor tile to ceiling behind toilet, Hubble tick ! And it adds some drama. Then stand back and look. Herring bone in a small room can be too busy, so I would be leaning towards the cara as the second tile, with no third. I’d go full height or just behind vanity.

my bathroom is fully tile and I have half tile one wall in powder room behind the toilet and basin, which are on the same wall. It echoes the bathroom and the plaster on rest echos rest of house which is toned done.

Now, I’m having a similar dilemma with a second bathroom under construction, some 9 years after the main bath and I can’t match floor tile. Which walls to tile and how high??? arghhh! I’ll post my layout for comment too. My hubby doesn’t like the tiles to ceiling

Good luck

Great advice @Paul Di Stefano Design - wish I’d had that calm advice at various points in my last and also first build

Jodie - I really like 1200 height tiling with Cara tile. Practical for cleaning and elegant and who doesn’t like a picture to look at whilst on loo

Hi Jodi, some more tiling ideas for you the marble wall looks amazing, perhaps some marble for the vanity taps to sit in and just a bit wider than the vanity and take it down to the floor, with a mirror above. cheers

@girlguides - all projects, no matter what they are, come down to simply a process of sequential decision-making. The individual decisions are not rocket science and when broken down logically everybody and anybody has the capacity to make the decisions.....when people/clients say to me "I'm hopeless I can't decide, I'm not good with decisions etc " my response in one form or another is "No, you in fact can do this, you just need some clarity and guidance" Without getting too deep into it, (and it's a separate conversation/story), years of university study proved somewhat disconnected from the "real world" of design & architecture. However there was one particular lesson/concept that's stayed with me and seems to inherently apply daily to what we do: 'design (or project) decisions require a sound reason and bulletproof argument' . That's all there is to it really. You do/follow this and it naturally steers towards both viable and appealing outcomes, as the decision making is always grounded, with some sense of purpose logic and confidence. Where I find people getting stuck or lost with it all is when the path of decision-making has either been pursued out of logical sequence or has become compromised (or contaminated!) by irrelevance to the particular situation. I always endeavour to starting with fundamental aspects, derived from the client (personal preferences/requirements) and of course the contextual elements and limitations. From that point, you always have a solid foundation to build project decisions upon and you can always then refer back to it at times of being stuck or overwhelmed. If you're caught on something, break it down and take it back a little, regain the footing/hold, then continue. Regardless of a project's scale or complexity understanding and implementing these basics can go a long way to avoiding projects getting off track or ending up at the wrong place if you know what I'm saying ;) Cheers PD