Should I choose concrete- or timber-look floor tiles?
Paul Tannous
5 years ago
last modified: 5 years ago
wooden floorboard look tiles
concrete look tiles
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Comments (23)
Kath
5 years agoAdrien Mamet
5 years agoRelated Discussions
Timber Floor - should I timber the lot
Comments (18)Unless you live like animals, carpet does not 'harbour' a single living organism. It's a scientific fact. It's your bed that harbours organisms. Carpet acts like an air filter for dust, waiting for you to vacuum it out. Timber flooring allows dust to be constantly stirred up into the air in the home unless you vacuum and mop daily. At the end of the day, go with what you like- carpet in bedrooms and not in high traffic areas is logical. I've manufactured carpet for years and wholesale carpet and hard flooring. There is a lot of misinformation out there about all flooring types. Happy to answer any queries....See MoreShould we choose matte or gloss tiles for our splashback?
Comments (10)My vote is for matte as well. Especially in the bathroom. If the tiles are near the shower, the glossy ones seem to lose their shine to the soap scum and need constant cleaning like glass screens, whereas it doesn't seem to happen on the matte tiles which are quite easy to clean. The stove and the sink are really the only places needing a spashback in the kitchen and my vote would be for matte finish there, even if you use the same tiles in gloss every where else....See MoreConcrete tiled ground floor, need flooring choice for asthma
Comments (25)Hi Chris The cheapest option is Grind & Seal, but we usually recommend Mechanically Polished Concrete for inside of a home. This is by far a better option, if you were to go for a Matte or Satin finish it is less expensive than a higher gloss finish. Mechanically Polished Concrete does not have a top coat sealer requiring drying and curing time and does not need re-applying in the future which will save time and money in the long run. Because Polished Concrete does not require drying or curing time it can be used as soon as the process is completed unlike the Grind & Seal option. All floors are slippery when wet, a non slip agent can be added to a top coat sealer which would be the Grind & Seal method which we do apply in a shower area if there is not a shower base. Polished Concrete in Matte and Satin finish does have a very good slip rating, has no grout lines as with tiled floors where dust can get trapped therefore it is a wonderful easy to clean flooring solution. Hope this helps, I have provided some details regarding the 2 main processes below There are 2 different finishing processes / methods that are commonly called Polished Concrete, they are very different so it is important that you know the difference & which process/method you want and which is being used on your concrete Polished Concrete - 12 to 17+ step process During this process the concrete is ground to the desired level of stone exposure. After grinding the concrete surface, the Polished Concrete process begins. This process has a densifier applied in multiple stages that is absorbed into the concrete which hardens and strengthens the concrete. A Polished Concrete Floor is Polished in Multiple stages in a Refining Process using diamond tooling & resin pads. A penetrating sealer is applied in the final buffing stage to complete the process The "Polished Concrete" process has "NO TOP COAT SEALER" applied therefore there is no drying or curing time required so your space can be used as soon as the process is completed Grind & Seal (a 3 to 4 step process) This is NOT Polished Concrete. Grind & Seal is often referred to as Polished Concrete, this is the cheaper substitute that gives a "Polished Concrete Look" With the Grind & Seal method the concrete is ground to the desired level of stone exposure and a TOP Coat Sealer is applied such as water based, solvent based, urethane, acrylic or epoxy requiring 5-7 days to dry & cure...See Morewhich tile should i choose?
Comments (20)The Kitchen -- it is very much a 1970's intrepretation of Colonial IMO , and ties in with the front door , so presumably thge rest of the house is similarly dated -- and thats not a bad thing . In one of the other pictures is a white 'panelled' door -- in a lot of ways its a pity that the rest of the doors weren't wood . Anyway , IMO painting the kitchen white will not achieve anything -- it won't look more modern , and it won't look warmer . The only slight argument is that it may look 'cleaner' but I don't think that's enough reason to do it . Your front door looks a few shades darker , and better for it IMO . So if you are keeping the kitchen , stain it darker , embrace the scrolls and the fake latticework , and the appliances all look reasonably modern . Its a decent size and has a good flow . Even the tiles look okay , but my criticism of them is you actually have to look -- they blend into the walls , because they appear to be exactly the same colour . The kickboards look grey -- you could repaint the upper parts of the walls in a similar grey , but my preference with slightly darker and slightly redder stained cabinets would be stay with a white or off-white , but re-grout in a mid to charcoal grey , and make a bit of a feature with the tiles , and it also ties in with your bench colour . The downlights are good -- the bug catcher UFO light definitely not so . Get something with character , but NOT 1970's , and definitely not 1970's faux colonial . Clean and modern would be the buzzwords . You could start again , or paint the frames white and change the doors to white or grey , lose some character and lose some warmth IMO -- it suits the house , just needs a lift ....See MoreSimonSays
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