Thanks all for your advice. Ive included some renders that I made with view along the corridor with and without the bulkhead. I don't think renderst does it justice until you actual walk through @ frame stage. I agree that ceiling height and comfort and look, depends on climate, orientation, insulation, relative proportions of other parts such as windows/doors. Because of the Melbourne climate, we have planned for double glazing, and good insulation with R2.5 batts wall, R6.0 ceiling. We have 2.4m height of windows and door around the ground floor which is btw 3 to 3.6m so I think proportion wise should be ok. In the family where it was always planned 3.6m from the start, we have a band of clerestory windows too. We have decided not to be too excessive with windows ( ie 3m and even 3.6m floor to ceiling - how grand would have that looked though! ) to minimise heat loss during winter. Energy rating for house is 7 stars so far. Thanks for giving me the pro and cons - I have some more confidence to let it stay at 3.6m throughout now.

You can have what ever ceiling height you can afford. But also think of what height windows, internal and external doors will be. What heating and cooling system you will install. What window treatments will be required for extra height windows, etc etc. Our double storey home has 2700mm ceilings throughout with 2400 doors and windows. This height is ideal. A gable ceiling in the living and dining areas, I think, has more character than a 5 metre ceiling in one room. Have 2700 ceilings throughout the remainder of home. Depends on the aesthetic you are going for, to what the design could be.

There are so many variables and ways to build things. Building succesfully is very much working well in three dimensions and understanding the structure, and the waterproofing required in three dimensions. Your question suggest that you are only thinking in terms of heights and brick courses, but there are lots of other things happening that would suggest that you get a section of the house and post it with dimensions. Most building professionals work in millimetrres rather than brick coursing. So converting your dimensions to millimetres - 28 courses is 2400mm, which is the minimum height for a habitable room ceiling. Six courses of brickwork is 514mm for the window opening, however your glazed area will be less than this due to the width of the window frame. Your 3 courses of brickwork which is 257mm should be enough for most steel lintels, unless you have a really wide opening for a window? You also need to allow for flashing if the clerestorey is above another roof running into the same wall - if this is the case you may need the full 47 courses. I would be asking your designers why they need 47 courses, as it is a lot higher, and there may be problems with setback issues? Is it a flashing issue? Is it a window opening width and lintel issue. I am afraid you haven't really supplied enough information or images to explain about the clerestorey window so it is impossible to answer precisely. Best of luck, Dr Retro of Dr Retro House Calls and Dr Retro Virtual Visist

thanks all- we in south australia. most homes we have lived in are character homes that have original high ceilings so having the 2400mm ceilings feels more enclosed to us personally. I've researched and hoping we can expose floor joists and line them with gyprock to 'raise' the ceiling height to the lower floor. upstairs we can vault the ceilings and add skylights to open it up