Remodelling an existing bathroom in a 1st floor concrete slab
7 years ago
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- 7 years ago
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Need help with my bathroom remodel
Comments (9)based on the accurate dimensions the most economical update would be to replace the spa with a shower over bath, keep the existing vanity and toilet, reuse existing taps and retile but, any bath renovation is always much more expensive than imagined, and the unexpected expenses (eg asbestos under tiles) can add up and a minimum of ten thousand for a very modest upgrade wouldn't be surprising...If the bathroom is in acceptable condition especially if there's any possibility of a future expansion towards the backyard that could affect the current position of bathroom and laundry) i suggest (subject to confirmation from a plumber) that you consider reorganising the other spaces and sacrifice the wiw to create an ensuite with linen storage taken off the middle bedroom..surprisingly an extra bathroom could be less expensive than renovating the old one but i would still allow at least $10,000 with careful planning...See MoreAdding a bathroom
Comments (27)my program is a vintage 3D Home Architect version 4 that i've been using for many years and i believe is no longer available but Siriusky has recently acquired a similar program ...i didn't mean "level the house" i meant add a raised timber floor to match the living room floor with the rest of the house...and, when costing your project make sure you do comparisons of all the options to consider best value for money spent...is the property for renovation and immediate resale, for your own use or for immediate rental? each option should have a different plan and a different budget and you need to cost each option to make the best decision and the suggested kitchen is a simple one line DIY flatpac with a simple island table and should be considered against the extra value of the third bedroom...See MoreWe are renovating an upstairs bathroom that sits on a concrete slab
Comments (11)Is the concrete slab the size of the whole bathroom , or just the new shower area , or just the old shower size ? And where is the drain , especially in relation to the shower head ? Or are you going to bore a new one ? It is therefore maybe possible , depending on the existing floor , to lay a concrete overlay , or even a tileable tray , with a suitable 'fall' to the corner . A tray ensures no leaks , and is often easier to seal against the wall and the glass side wall too . It would probably be 25-30mm taller at the 'open' end , but I'd actually do a cedar or similar raised slat 'mat' area outside the shower to disguise the step or hob ....See MoreBathroom renovation begins - Seeking opinions on selections please
Comments (34)Yes, siriuskey. You are right again. It would be smart to invest in having a professional draftsman draw it up. But on face value, I really think oklouise's plan works. I have sort of drawn it out on the floor. I love that she is using standard size vanities with only a custom made top, and the towel shelves are now 450 instead of 250 wide, which is much better. The little odd-shaped infill at the end of the bath provides a spot for the lovely jug and bowl set my mother made for me. (I used to use the jug to pour water over the grandchildren's heads when I washed their hair, and now it's just a lovely decorative item with deep sentimental value) and there is space beside the bath for the urn filled with decorative soaps that was a gift from a son-in-law on his first visit to our home. I really think the bath needs to come back to 1500 long, but that's not an issue at all. I found a really nice shaped oval tub at 1500 x 760 that I like and is quite inexpensive. I don't need to worry about towel rails because I have a lovely timber free-standing towel rack that will fit nicely at the end of the shower if the shower door is placed on the side. It looks like the vanity drain can run under the drawers and into the bath outlet and the WC vanity will run under the wall into the shower drain, and all other plumbing stays the same except I'll ask the plumber to chase the shower tap and rose into the exterior wall rather than have it on the side, OR there is room for a false wall in front of the exterior wall to hide the plumbing if that works out better. The niche can go in the new wall behind the WC vanity. I'll be really surprised if this isn't a feasible plan, but I will take your advice, siriuskey, and get a pro to draw it up so I can be totally confident it works. Can't thank you enough, oklouise - and you, siriuskey, for all your efforts which, I think, contributed by generating new ideas and flushing out the important issues....See More- 7 years ago
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