I remember a comment by a Houzzer that used something like this for a bedroom wall. I think they rolled it on as normal then did light upward strokes while still wet. It helped keep the sheen looking even. Definitely do a trial wall or big board first. Have you seen metallic paint used in a media room before? I'm curious as to what light bounces around when using the screen. ETA: Just found the thread I read that tip in. See comment by Sian Sampey [here[(https://www.houzz.com.au/discussions/master-bedroom-feature-wall-dsvw-vd~3366992?n=11).

Will look much better white BUT! Having done this to big old sliding doors and window frames in an apartment with more ‘steps’ in the frames there are a couple of things to watch out for. Sealing - as mentioned in another post is essential, if the wood is stained then the colour will come thru to the paint. I did this just as the manufacturers were getting the water based enamels right and have done several recoats since. Agree that Zinsser are great paints, I have used their wall and ceiling paints everywhere, cost more, are a bit more ‘drippy’ but also have a sealer component and actually do a real white that doesn’t yellow. They also last really well on the wall. When you transform to white - especially if you are thinking high gloss EVERY defect in the wood surface will show up. This adds to the charm or is a problem, depends on your perspective. I dropped back to a satin finish on wood trims. There is only so much prep you can do, sometimes it is easier to fix the obvious dings and then do another round after the first coat of white, after the sealer. This is harder to explain - but you can end up with a dark line around each window pane - because the glass is sandwiched between two pieces of dark coloured wood and the ‘inside’ of the wood shows through the glass and you notice it from across the room. I painted slightly onto the glass, a few millimetres to achieve a fully white effect. You only notice it if you look closely. Fly screens - wooden fly screens have the same ‘edge effect’ metal flyscreens are a bit easier to paint. They all look significantly better in white than the dark wood - in my case the two sets of sliding doors have very wide frames. Depending on your skills and patience you may want to get a professional. I am about to replace the south facing repainted bathroom and study windows with double glazed UPVC tilt and turn with white frames - no more arctic bathroom, jammed winder, condensation or mould. These are now made (licensed) in Australia so only have to pay for shipping from Vic to ACT rather than from ‘overseas’.

Investigate a white wash which will make it lighter but still give you the movement of the woodgrain that you will see. You could leave the fireplace feature wall natural but if so, I would darken the fireplace surround so it doesn't "pop" so much. Perhaps a taupe/greige colour. Yes, curtains need to go as high as possible. This will lift the room and give it height. Looks like thought needs to be made for a better lighting plan as I see you have quite a few lamps about. Lamps are still great.. permanent ceiling/wall lighting could be improved. Other alternative is to paint everything a touch of soft white like Resene Merino. Also look at Resene Black White (coverage may be better). Both ceilings and walls. A dark ceiling feels lower than a white one.

I second James Hardie Axon cladding as it has a vertical groove that echoes the original vertical weatherboard. Or you could get some weatherboard custom milled to match the existing and just patch the damage without doing the whole house. In the photo below I specified the Axon sheet which was then painted lime yellow. Also be aware that some builders will suggest materials that will make their lives easier rather than what actually looks good and will be durable and long-lasting. Best of luck Dr Retro of Dr Retro House Calls and Dr Retro Virtual Visits via Zoom