Kazawa This bathroom has all the hallmark of a designer, if you have engaged a designer keep quality throughout, don't try to get the renovation on the cheap. Your designer has created a duct for services, modern plumbing is designed to last, the the majority of patented joining of copper pipes have a 25 year warranty. If you want perfection to last 25 yr +, Architects and quality bathroom renovations specify silver soldered ( brazed ) copper water pipes, and new pvc drainage pipes. It really is a case of you get what you pay. A plumber may take 8 hrs to rough in a bathroom with copper, silver soldered x $ 90/hr = $ 720 + materials= $ 1000 Or copper/ plastic with fittings $ 5 hrs x$ 90=$ 450 +materials $ 400 =$ 850 Only use taps/mixers with 15 year warranty e.g Grohe, Sussex, Methvan from $ 300e Bath steel Kaldewei Eurowa $ 400, 15 yr warranty A quality tiler will cost approx $ 3,000+-- Waterproofing , get it done professionally, to waterproof a bathroom exceeding Building Code of Aust usually takes 3 visits from waterproofer and will cost approx $ 1250 to $ 1500 with waterproofing certificate. and take 5 days, waterproofing is considered a structural component for home warranty insurance Only buy tiles from reputable tile shops, a tiler can only do his beat with quality tiles, if you give him rubbish tiles you get a poor job. Tilers in Sydney buy their less expensive tiles at Sefton A bathroom of the quality in the photo renovated properly/ professionally would set you back all up approx $ 30K + depending on vanity/ bench top, toilet suite Ken Evers Beach Bathrooms

What are the dimensions of the existing room without walls, where are the windows, in the toilet and over the vanity in the shower room? 3M x 3M what are we working with. If you remove all the walls except the linen cupboard and does the linen cupboard also have hall access? If so get the linen opening out of the bathroom and have doors to hall side, which will make both elements work better. I know toilets in main bathrooms are not everyone's cup of tea, but if you can have a 720 door from i take it, a hall, run a custom made vanity unit, and it must be custom made to fit exactly the space available, and take it from hall and over the toilet cistern, which should be a concealed cistern, maintenance panel is the flush plate, and just pan is displayed. Two vanities if needed, one bigger one is more on trend, and hang the cabinets off the floor under the vanity top, to make it look longer and makes cleaning under the cabinet so much easier. That leaves a lot of space for the bath where the second vanity unit is now, which would look fantastic as a freestanding type. A simple frameless glass or semi frameless glass shower screens, allow access to bath, so it might be say 1M wide, if you install those long grid type floor wastes and the shower is long enough you might get away without a shower door. New taps nice big tiles to ceiling and this will look sweet. Close off the toilet and it becomes a bit of a rabbit warren. R

correct measurements are the only answer...for your new floorplan you need a room (without any restrictions that would measure at least 2400mm x 2000...it's always possible to squeeze in some minor variations but only if it's worth the cost in convenience, improved value of the property and actual cash outlay.... the front door entry foyer would be lost, the new bathroom doorway wastes more space, the linen cupboards would be too narrow for anything except a few towels and sheets (that can easily be stored in a suitable vanity or bedroom cupboard) the bathtub is gone and you would have spent about $20,000 for a bathroom that is not better than what's already there?? ...the computer programs that we use are called 3D Home Architect and my version 4 is no longer available to buy but i believe siriuskey may have purchased her version recently? these programs do make the plans much easier to see but you must start with accurate measurements and an understanding of spaces needed ...start with a space about 800 x 800 mm for a toilet, 900 x 900mm for a basic shower, 500 x 900 for a single handbasin 1500 x 500 for a double handbasin then add in at least 900 x 900 for a doorway (including space for the frame and space to walk through...same for cavity sliders!) and then you'll need space to walk around in front of the toilet and shower and handbasins ......unfortunately with the plumbing and space restrictions i don't believe it's possible to do more than widen the existing shower space by rearranging the entry wall.(NB you'll still need to spend $5000 to $10,000 for demolition, carpentry, new waterproofing, tiles, shower, vanities wall cabinet, taps, plumbing etc..forget the linen cabinet and store linen in a new vanity and toiletries in a wall hung mirror doored cabinet and keep some width in the entry foyer (minimu 1200 wide) ...removing some of the non structural wall in the kitchen should be the cheapest improvement for the kitchen and add space for a small breakfast bar but removing the end counter would lose valuable counter space that could also be used for a pantry ...before making any decision you need to think about the reason for the changes...are the bathroom, laundry and kitchen in need of immediate repair, is the unit for your own use of needing improvements for rental or resale...?? always happy to draw up your plans but have to nag again about the accurate measurements...try measuring each separate room (ie shower, toilet and vanity, laundry and storage from wall to opposite wall in several places in both directions, ignoring all the fittings but include separate measurement of the diameter of the hot water heater.

my suggestion for the master suite depends on location of the windows but removing the biw and changing the location of the master bedroom entry door would allow enough space for an ens and wiw with 4.2m of full height storage plus space for a tall chest of drawers and plenty of standing/dressing area and the ens would allow for double vanity and 1200 x 900 shower depending on the exact width and location of the big window but i've included an alternative with a small desk/dressing table/chest of drawers in the bedroom if the big window is too wide or can't be changed BUT always depends on accurate dimensions and your measurements of the other bedrooms and family bathroom are inconsistent so could you please confirm the size of all the rooms, including the entry, hall, wardrobe and pantry..and what is the height of the downstairs ceiling as there may be a small amount of storage space that could be located above the stairs (behind the present location of the fridge??)