Hi Lambkin, there are many conflicting elements when it comes to making these decisions so you really have to rank your priorities. Obviously you need more storage, so storage is one priority, but when it comes to really tight storage situations like this with a potential major downfall such as greatly devaluing the re-sale by losing a bedroom it's worth getting very detailed about what you actually need sorted and how cleverly you can accommodate those needs with minimum impact. I aproach these situaltions like this; Assess requirement for deep storage- ie clothes that hang need 600mm depth unless you want to compromise further by turning the rods the opposite way. Assess requirement for shallow storage- folded gear, shoes, other stuff on shelves. These only neeed 360mm depth, externally 400mm. Breaking it down like this enables you to approach tight spaces much more effectively. Depending on the lineal hanging space you actually require, you might be able to fit a couple deep of built in robes in the existing room- possible either side of the bed. These will be purely hanging space. Then you might do a shallower cabinet or long, low drawer unit for the shoes and folded gear. If you are really tight, shoes can be stored vertically in drawers. Consider other storage opportunities throughout the home where you can store overflow items and do a seasonal swap if need be. If after fully considering the downside of converting room 3, then I would intend to do it in a way that you can still present it as a bedroom if need be, so preferrably don't change the walls. There is a good opportunity for deep overflow wardrobe hanging in the niche by the window in room 3, it looks about 800mm. If that was double hanging , you gain 1.6 lineal meteres there and have hardly lost any space in the room. Then doing a long low freestanding drawer unit or credenza for folded gear or shoes will not dominate the space with the height. Good Luck

"Architect-designed houses are not accessible to all." This is a myth championed by the building industry. Alternatively, why not focus on the key benefits architects bring to a project. Here are a few for you: • Appoint an architect to your project and you’ll gain a home designed for the way you want to live.The alternative is a builder-designed home that suits what the builder is used to building. Quality builders will ask for plans and specifications to be thoroughly documented so that they can go ahead and do what they do best, which is build. Working out with the owner what you’re going to build and why is the architect’s role. • An architect manages planning approvals. This process is complex, often arbitrarily applied by many Councils, fraught with pitfalls for the novice and is ramped up every year with new hoops to jump. If you want a professional on your side who knows the territory, will go in to bat for you and will forge a way through this minefield, you need an architect. • If you’d prefer to put the works to tender to a number of builders rather than having to accept the quote of the builder you started the process with, you need an architect. • If you’d prefer to protect yourself with a proper, architect-managed ABIC contract that works equally for both parties and is legally enforceable, you need an architect. • An architect will minimise costly changes during construction as he or she will produce a proper level of drawings (expect 20 x A3 pages for a new home, rather than the 1-2 pages you’ll receive from a drafting service.). The reasons for this are that you have on paper exactly what you want to build. Without this, you are entering a contract with a builder with none of the details resolved. You wouldn’t do that if you were buying a house, so why do it when spending an equally significant amount of money? Unfortunately, some builders see this approach as an opportunity to happily accept constant changes from ‘project managing’ owners because it’s just another variation that he can charge for. The longer he is there, the better for his margins, particularly when there’s no contract to speak of. Finally, an architect is a specialist with a professional duty of care, irrespective of financial gain. In other words, they’re there to support and protect you, without benefit to themselves. No one else in the building industry can provide this.

I haven't read through all the posts but to me the first thing I saw was that you could continue the wall between the staircase and bedroom right through the bathroom to the outside wall, removing the bath altogether then remove the existing wall between the bathroom and ensuite. Next (presuming your plan is drawn to scale) theres room to rearrange your ensuite by putting the basin on the outside wall and moving the toilet and shower over to allow space to build a new wall allowing more room on the other side for the wiw. You could also remove the wall between the existing robe and ensuite and bathroom, giving even more rooom in both the enusite and the bathroom - or in your bedroom. Personally I prefer the ensuite as close to the robe as possible as opposed to the other end of the bedroom - solely for ease of use - finding clothes, dressing etc after showering etc. Also it would drive me nuts having to walk through my wardrobe to enter the bed room - no matter how tidy you may be, a wardrobe always ends up with shoes, shopping bags or whatever on the floor etc and if its your entry to the bedroom you can NEVER shut the door and worry about that later... Good Luck :)

Hi okLouise, thank you for your message. We are adding to our second story on our Californian bungalow. Just planning phase now. It’s presently a rumpus room with balcony (bathroom area) and all the existing windows are being removed and replaced (rotting sash windows and thin glass) so we can add these too. We could also swap the bathroom and wardrobe around too, the plumbing is fine either way. I think it might be useful for other family members to have access to the toilet, we have another toilet upstairs but it’s within the other bathroom. The bedroom faces west so gets the direct afternoon sun. The left (wardrobe side) faces the neighbours house so I’d need frosted windows that side if any. Thank you!