Hi there I thought I would jump in here a touch as you are on the right track but there are some glaring points that need to be cleared up for you before you go and purchase flooring. Laminate flooring is a Hi Def image of Timber flooring/oak/Natural Species etc and then transposed using a heat method to a MDF or HDF core, then profiled with a click system for ease of installation, maintenance relocation and repair. Good laminate flooring (Quikstep or Krono Swiss) can be very rewarding , look very much like natural timber, and be very durable against scratching and indentation. Laminates nemesis is high saturation of water or moisture. Good e budget solution for all living areas and rooms except toilets bathroom or laundrys. Engineered boards are a veneer of Natural timber and are just as durable as the solid version of whatever species you choose. Whether that be Spotted Gum, Jarrah or Oak. Sorry but you CAN re sand engineered boards. When re sanding occurs through a professional sander, the top .5mm is the depth of the product that you generally ever really need to remove. Some engineered flooring has a 6mm wear layer/ veneer and that's more than if you purchased a solid 19mm raw timber floor. Engineered boards are less likely "cup"(edge of the boards rising so that you can see a little lip) than a solid. We would recommend that if you are considering a timber floor please consult a retailer that only handles timber and specializes in that medium. Hope this helped

Hmm. Folks I don't understand what is going on with these recent comments. The fridge dilemma was settled ages ago and I advised that I had settled on a stainless-steel fridge that worked well in my white kitchen. Just as an update, I had some problems with said fridge, calling for service several times and the fridge having to go back to the factory. Very unsatisfactory and inconvenient. They provided a loan fridge but as everyone knows, emptying and stocking fridges is not the most enjoyable pass time. After some discussions with F & P they were persuaded to replace the dud fridge with another similar fridge, although with the concealed handles. (Not my preference). I had to pay a small amount, but it came with a new fridge warranty. So dear people, I will close this conversation and give thanks to everyone for the input. Kind regards sydneymidge

hi all, thanks for your comments and support. We have received the ATFA inspection report which clearly outlines numerous problems with the floor which are solely caused by the poor installation. The installation does not meet the manufacturers specifications or Australian Standards. The slab was too uneven, far more than the recommended allowance, and was not properly prepared prior to the laying of the boards. We have since been back in touch with the installer. He was not happy and initially tried to act as if he was shocked, even though we highlighted problems with him even before he finished laying the boards. He also tried to make us feel guilty about taking the action that we did. Now with the report, there is no way he can deny that he is at fault. So, we are now in the process of getting quotes to have the floor pulled up, slab rectified and new boards laid by a professional wooden floor installer. We may not have to remove the whole kitchen and it may be possible to all be done by removing the kickers and panels and cutting the boards out. Even though this is not ideal, we have our fingers crossed. However, the extent of the problem will not be known until the boards come up and see what damage/problems are underneath. it has been a very stressful, inconvenient and disappointing experience. I think we have reached a point now where we know we just have to get on with it and get it done. This is not something that we have ever had to go through before and we are really feeling out way in the dark. There is certainly no joy in having to confront someone about their poor workmanship. We believe that the installer has been in touch with his insurance company, but whether they cover him for this type of thing, I am not sure. I guess that is for him to sort out. The floorboards are engineered oak and directly stuck to the subfloor. The glue he used was called wakpol or similar, but we have since been advised that a foaming glue probably would have been more suitable for this job.

Thank you so much annb1997, i will go and read that article. I know, there are SO many neutrals and greys. I started getting confused with the various shades of white, then decided that i wanted to jazz it up a bit so landed on grey. Then came the decision of either "greige" or real grey. So many choices!