Hi there I thought I would jump in here a touch as you are on the right track but there are some glaring points that need to be cleared up for you before you go and purchase flooring. Laminate flooring is a Hi Def image of Timber flooring/oak/Natural Species etc and then transposed using a heat method to a MDF or HDF core, then profiled with a click system for ease of installation, maintenance relocation and repair. Good laminate flooring (Quikstep or Krono Swiss) can be very rewarding , look very much like natural timber, and be very durable against scratching and indentation. Laminates nemesis is high saturation of water or moisture. Good e budget solution for all living areas and rooms except toilets bathroom or laundrys. Engineered boards are a veneer of Natural timber and are just as durable as the solid version of whatever species you choose. Whether that be Spotted Gum, Jarrah or Oak. Sorry but you CAN re sand engineered boards. When re sanding occurs through a professional sander, the top .5mm is the depth of the product that you generally ever really need to remove. Some engineered flooring has a 6mm wear layer/ veneer and that's more than if you purchased a solid 19mm raw timber floor. Engineered boards are less likely "cup"(edge of the boards rising so that you can see a little lip) than a solid. We would recommend that if you are considering a timber floor please consult a retailer that only handles timber and specializes in that medium. Hope this helped

Hi Adelaide again - been giving more thought to my suggestions and they are not going to work. For some reason I just can't get my head around metric sized rooms, I have to convert back to the old imperial. So assuming you are going to build up the alfresco area to make it a walk out from the house, look at taking that right across the rear of the house. With the master bedroom I was looking at walking into a hallway with a walk-in wardrobe opening off it but you will basically want the whole 3rd bedroom to achieve a decent sized wardrobe and give you maximum storage. I'd have the ensuite where the void area is, which basically leaves you the laundry for the bedroom - way to small. However if you were to extend the bedroom across the alfresco area, this would give a great sized room, with large windows looking across the back garden and doors opening out to the alfresco area. I'd then extend the house and the alfresco area to the end of the Activity room, slide the family room to that end and put the laundry in at the void end, which could be accessed from the outside or from the family room, whatever suits. This also has the advantage of keeping all your plumbing together except for the kitchen. Don't think about excavating, it can cause massive water problems. No matter how much you might add drainage, or seal the structure, there always seems to be those on in a hundred year events that can cause unexpected flooding. Water problems have to be the worst nightmare.

Look at 'Iron Ash'. Its a treated version of what you're after. Don't know anything about it but seen it recently on the web. Overall avoid Merbau as mentioned above, as well as being an imported 'sustainably' managed timber.... Use local product's when available as they're manufacturered to high standard's, supporting local job's, companies must meet tight regulation's, etc. unlike other countries....

Hi Will, we have the Taurus and certainly love the look. We installed it late winter last year so it’s only recently that we have really put it through its paces. We have a huge open plan area to heat and this does do the job but needs a constant supply of hardwood to keep it effective. i am a bit disappointed at how quickly it burns through the timber even when turned down. it is absolutely cold by next morning and does not provide warmth overnight. it also billows smoke whenever the door is opened though this eventually lessens as the heat builds and the timber burns more efficiently. The firebox is quite shallow and it’s a challenge at times to stoke the timber safely as on occasions the coals and logs teeter on the front edge and it’s easy for them to fall out. We crafted a steel lip to sit in front as a prevention. And lastly it’s disappointing that no matter how much we try we always end up with blackening on the glass which requires daily cleaning. i’m guessing this is related to the abundance of smoke that seems to remain accumulated when lighting the fire and getting it going over the first hour. And yes, our firewood is excellent quality and dry but i can’t help thinking there needs to be a redesign to allow the smoke to travel up the flu rather than remain in the firebox.