Keeping things cosmetic will mean that. Angled dwarf wall will need to stay, if not refaced. With terra-cotta tiles that look to be laid around your joinery, your footprint will remain, and replacing doors won't address the side panels of the wall oven Adjoining the cabinets, as to replace this, you need to uninstall the back units adjoining them, so it is almost a rip out and refit. The alternative is paint. Without correct and proper priming products and aplication, this is risky, doors and end panels are quite easy, hoer adjoining wet areas or heated panels, unless you use the right product things can go wrong. Fr light, all horizontal surfaces boulder reflect and bounce light around the work surface, so light, stone is great, but will cost what a new kitchen would, if your painting cabinets, a stone top may be an over capitalization, replacing your doors with new and a laminated top would have an overall improved aesthetic instead, and save stone for a future new layout. That's not to say the bar top couldn't be. I would use this dated feature to create a new one. A stone waterfall or slab end as their known would help draw your eye down to your floor, and provide a contemporary element to clad. Go with a chunky stone edge build up, say 60mm and then it will frame the back wall area to display a feature material, in this case, I suggest a horizontal timber plank. Yu could do a laminate, but a pack of engineered flooring will provide the character aswell as durability, choose something that ties into your floor, and this could be used elsewhere as a feature. Re tile over your spalshbackin, and if you go with all white cabinets, consider a patterned or aggregated white counter, with lint cabinets, then a stone to in a solid white, to stand out against the patterned laminated benches. Or opposite for te same reason, the bar top is what will be touched and stone does that, so an interesting pattern, pebble or grain would add to the interest, and plain white laminate in the practical space will juxtapose this. I would think of using a vinyl (thermolaminated) profiled door, something simple. Like a square shaker style door, both modern and classic but not old fashioned. It will create focus in the kitchen and again front he simplicity of the Benchtops, The splash back could be anything, but subway are great I agree, there is also a DIY acrylic sheet from laminex called metaline which can be installed right over tile, you can even co yourself or have the cabinet maker do it. It has the appearance of a glass splash back with great colour choices. There is a pewter or grey metallic like argente perle, which would tie in your stainless appliances making it overall modern and clean. Good luck?

Yes laminex and polytech are both brands. no polytech don't offer more..... LAMINEX DO have patterned or profiled doors you mentioned, they have vinyl, painted, veneer and timbers! And definately a bigger range. Both have laminate, however LAMINEX have a larger range. I think you were confusing laminate which is a product with laminex which is the brand. They also offer thermo formed, or vacuum sealed doors known as vi yl wrap, laminex also offer painted two pack door, crystal gloss which is a laminate door that has a polyurethane lacquer coating, giving it the highest possible gloss coating over a solid co"our, woodgrains or patterns, they also do natural and reconstructed veneers, solid timber, aluminium framed etc. In laminate, which is a LPL, low pressure laminate, they also have 'impressions' which is their textured range, making woodgrains more realistic, polyptych also offer some in their laminate range with finishes called nuance for example. HPL laminate is high pressure, and has a different coating so it's used for Benchtops which require more durability. It can also be sued to ha d laminate or apply laminate in sheet form to custom made shapes or cabinets such as commercial fit outs. Under any brand, laminate is the cheapest door. Laminex has a far bigger product and co,our range, both are made in Australia meeting our standards, however some cheaper imrted ones tend to peel or fade, here they won't. With laminate doors the material is a paper based product, built up with coated layers of resin mKing it durable, and a surface we know that is moisture repel ant. Melamine is also but less durable, and generally we use it internally as carcass material, often white you can also have co.our, but laminate goes onestep further and is better for doors. Edging can be in 1mm, 2mm abs which is like a PVC acrylic and is tough to prevent chips or peeling from the door. Laminate will only offer a flat door- many colours and edge choices, abs edging can be matched, contrasted, metal look or ply look, so many to choose makingn your door stand out. Laminex the brand offer soft form doors with rounded edges to sides, so only top and bottom need edging, better if you are using whites or light so you don't see a joint line. The most affordable and durable door type! Vinyl wrap or thermo formed doors have profiles, meaning shapes to them, they also have no edging material as they are literally wrapped arpund an mdf door. They are slightly dearer or this reason. Both companies, and many more offer their own range of door profiles to choose from, also accessories like capping moulds etc, so this can decide who you buy from! Then there's crysta gloss, aluminum doors etc Timber veneers price up nect, they have an extensive re age offering nautural veneers such as traditional hardwood timbers, like blackwood, jarrah etc, but also exotic veneers like sassafras, zebranos, and oaks, so much more. Then theres reconstructed, manufactured to provide contemporary colours and finishes, often not requiring lacquers like naturals do. These reconstructed veneers have to have doors made from them, whereas most companies offer ready made veneer doors aswell ad solid timber too. Again offering profiles. Laminex too offer mdf doors wi profiles both flag and patterned for painting, they have a ready made painted range with colour choices made. All in all, laminate is a flat door, laminex the brand offer more than any other in Australia and are worldwide, they lead innovation and technology, and lead colour directions and trends. They may be slightly dearer, but back their product ad do I. I am a designer, mainly across interior fit outs mostly Focusing on joinery so kitchens etc are a specialty of mine.

No problem gabrieledwards. The marine ply detail is fantastic, but can be expensive, so I suggested a PVC edging called 2mm abs which can come in a ply edge look, this means you can have standard faced laminate doors which are wipe able and more durable han marine ply with the edging they will look like the real deal. I'd go with this on the base cabinets for practicality using block colour, and then build the wall cabinets in marine ply. I even like the idea of ply pegboard backing in open cubbies, and float them on the wall rather tHan to the ceiling, as this was the usual in this era and suits a relaxed fitout. I'd consider your island to have a steel frame like a prep bench, maybe movable on castors for a flexible space, and the feel frame again makes it feel more beach shack than boho chic! I'd also contrast a flat faced fitout, meaning no profile doors with vj board or lining board panels on the wall. Applied vertically they are reminiscent of this era, and of holiday homes, although the modern day version is far more impressive. This detail could I vertically lift your space, drawing your eye upwards towards the marine ply cabinetry, and could integrate he kitchen with other rooms adjoining this space. Vertical boards or planked walls are very 70s, very coastal, and also very linear (on trend). The key to replicating style eras, is to emphasize and interpret the good, but leave out the bad. There are some unique printed laminates in the innovations range which offer specialty laminates. Printed, patterns embossed etc, and one called bold clone could look great as a backing to cabinets in your Brunswick kitchen. As a kitchen designer myself, I love to use a specialty or standard colour laminate in the top drawers of my kitchens, perhaps the cutlery drawer as it introduces a personality and is often a detail that is overlooked. Laminex also have a new board product which is suitable for doors in gloss white, which is both magnetic and a whiteboard! And a matte blackboard door. It is double backed, so great for pantry doors. My main emphasis would be on highlighting clever use of space and form. Use integrated lighting on the upper overheads, even led strip lighting under your kickers to highlight the perimeter and give it a lively, ambient glow. Have a look at the innovations range cor some cool colour options. Here's a link to bold clone or pure clone which is white. Maybe the pure clone in he shack, and bold clone (black) in Brunswick. A nod to your stamp on both. The bold clone can be interpreted many ways, and would suit industrial, warehouse looks, to really architectural inner city fitouts. Urban chic. http://www.laminex.com.au/products.php#!/specialty/innovations/bold-clone

You will often find that the advice you get from your kitchen supplier will be biased based on the products that give them the opportunity to make the most profit. I work as an independent kitchen designer (therefor making my money on the design irrespective of the materials) and constantly find that joineries try to sway my clients away from what I have specified based on what makes them more money. My advice would be that you will get better long term life out of polyurethane doors, but you will also pay thousands of dollars more for them, so you need to assess for yourself if it will be worth it. Some points to consider; vacuum formed (vinyl wrapped) doors will last very well provided that they are a reputable brand and the design is considered. For quality , durability, cost effectiveness and flexibility of styles I would suggest Polytec. They back their product with an extensive warranty. A good kitchen designer will ensure that appropriate allowances are made to prevent heat issues effecting the vinyl doors. These include supplying & fitting a heat guard around any built-in appliances and adjusting the position of the wall cabinets. You willI have problems with the overhead cabinets if they are positioned too close to the stove AND if you don't use the rangehood. If you purchase a good quality rangehood & ensure that you use it when cooking on the stove the vinyl doors will be fine. Also worth noting whilst the vinyl doesn't 'chip' as such it can still be damaged, with damage looking more like the marks / scuffing you get on leather surfaces (think of the toes of your shoes). It does take a fair amount of effort to cause this damage. With the polyurethane doors you will be looking at several thousand dollars more expensive than a vacuum formed door. One of the greatest benefits is flexibility in design and colour (including the ability to have much sharper profiles). Yes it is a painted surface and any painted surface can be damaged by chipping, however the painted surface is still quite durable. The majority of damage I see is usually not from regular kitchen use, but rather from kids who have snuck in with their metal tipper truck and crashed it into the cupboards. The beauty of it is you can touch it up with some matching paint and you will probably never notice. You will also be able to remove a door if the paint is badly damaged and take it into a paint store for re-spraying (but please be aware the colour will not 100% match due to the aging process of the other doors). Essentially there isn't really one right or wrong answer, it comes down to budget and the intended lifespan of the kitchen. As far as natural granite versus stone (Caearstone, Quantum Quartz etc) I would say this depends more on the look that you are after. If you actually like the look of natural granite & have a particular variety in mind you will not find a 'stone' product to give you that look, you are better to get the granite. The cost of granite varies astronomically depending on the variety, where it is mined from, how rare it is, etc. It will usually be more expensive than Caesar Stone. Natural granite can have fault lines in it, which is basically an area which has a propensity to crack. If it has a fault line it is likely to be discovered when the product is cut to size and the stone mason will have to get a replacement. Sometimes they like to scare you into thinking that your benchtop will just randomly crack one day but it is highly unlikely to have a fault line in the first place, and if it does, it won't crack unless additional undue stress is put on it (Like walking on the benchtop to change the lightbulbs!). 'Stone' which will be referring to manufactured quartz products like Caesar Stone, Quantum Quartz, Smart Stone, Silestone etc. is the most popular option for stone benchtops today. It is a man made product and is produced from quartz, resin and various aggregates and colouring agents. It is more cost effective than natural granite, but has a much more consistent look due to the fact that it is man made. Some people who like natural granite do not like the consistent pattern within the man made stone. Other than if you want that 'natural' look, it will be the better option for you as it is generally more cost effective and is also more stain resistant. Marble is a big no-no for kitchens. It is expensive and highly impractical with propensity to stain excessively, and requires regular expensive sealing. Thinner 20mm stone is the fashion starting to come through from Europe but it really hasn't caught on properly yet. I would go with what you prefer the look of, as this will change again before the lifespan of your benchtop is up. Good Luck!