Well now after reading all these posts, I have a dilemma. We would like to maximize the practicality of the deep and soft closing drawers. Corner drawers, the under sink u-shaped drawers etc. Thirty five years ago (yep that's right 35 yrs) when our budget did not allow us to buy new, we bought a dismantled u-shaped show-room demonstration timber kitchen. For years it was blonde pine. Solid pine benchtops, re-sanded and stained a couple of times. Then my husband painted all the solid timber doors with antique white USA marine paint which has worn well. New satin knobs (that have not worn as well) Now it's becoming a little 'shabby chic'. We thought of a complete reno. But we have no space to enlarge on the 3x3 metres. and new 'plastic' kitchens somehow seem less durable than our existing old one. Sink, stove and fridge in the recommended triangle floorplan. So what to do? Our pantry is in the corner with shelves that items at the back of are inaccessible. The microwave is the perfect shoulder level. The cabinets allow me to display favourite tins, crockery and vintage scales. Being a split level house I need the broom cupboard and ironing board stored close at hand.

I allow approx. 3 weeks for an initial concept if I have contour surveys, etc. already at hand. This also includes working around other projects not just a solid 3 weeks on yours only. If it was complex then allowing more time would have been obvious to the designer. Basic concept plan could be a floor plan/s or could be a quality rendering in 3D with floor plans and elevations? Most jobs have site specific challenges but these are well known usually as the fee proposal would have been adjusted to suit. What were the fee's? Is there an initial start engagement fee thats already paid? What are they covering such as design and plans only or the full architectural service from start to finish? Could be better to cut your losses and go elsewhere. Choosing the right designer is equally important as choosing the builder and this may not be reflected in the fee's! Paying more may not be the better outcome as is paying too little.

its ot easy to remove that brick pillar. 1. load bearing 2. power comes through it - i have to cut the concrete floor to chase the power down or need to leave a small post there. 3. would make a big mess knocking down all that brick, attaching new steel beams etc, then it wont match the ceiling and cornice, just too many works with council plans and permits, the cost outweighs the look i believe. i could just cover it with something nice and hang some photos, put a notice board, reminder board etc. to answer the above, only planning to put 2 stools in the island. can we please focus on the design, i mean the drawer and cupboard sizes and its positions, placement etc and lets not discuss more about the pillar. Few things 1. The kick boards are 100mm high as opposed to 150mm to give more space in drawers 2. Cutlery drawers are 100mm high 3. Bottle/spices/plates drawers are 200mm high 4. Pot drawers are 380mm high 5. Fridge over heads are 350mm high i believe any wine/liquor bottle will fit in that height 6. Other overheads are 350mm high and 350mm deep with push open doors 7. kitchen bench to overhead height is 580mm, cooktop to rangehood height is 780 7. total kitchen height is 2400mm 8. pls check the wine rack spacing 9. there is two open shelves under the overheads to put small glasses and some plates for quick access 10. pull out bin near the sink 11. 860mm single bowl sick with add on bowl and drainer etc 12. fully integrated dish washer 13. cupboard next to it 14. microwave and cutlery drawers are in the island opposite to fridge and cooktop 15. push open cupboards under the island where the overhang is. 16. There is not dedicated pantry in the design, my pantry consists of 600mm deep drawers, a bench and 450mm deep over heads, bench to overhead height is 430mm, plan is to put the small appliances in the bench. wife doesnt want it to be closed as she doesnt want another door to open everytime she needs to access a toaster or so, or putting a big door will expose the internals of the cupboard when we access the toaster, in her terms just exposing the appliances by itself is better than exposing everything in the shelf. To summarise i have 100mm high drawers in 2400mm length(cutleries) 200mm high drawers in 7800mm length(spices, places, biscuits, other small bits and pieces) 380mm high drawers in 4500mm length(mostly for pots, pans and other long bottles) 180mm high drawers in 900mm length floor cupboard in 3800 length 350mm high overhead cupboards in 4500mm length 5400mm shelves in the pantry 10000mm bench space.

Hi Lila The waste pipe can still work with the L shape but if you are concerned, switch the sink and BBQ locations. That way the BBQ fumes will be further from the house too. Access to the back yard is always a consideration but I wouldn't let it rule your overall design as there are always ways around it. I had a mini bobcat come through my house to dig the pool in the back yard when I lived in Brisbane!!! A sail maker or equestrian sewer could easily make a good cover for the bench unit and I've seen it work on several occasions, but I would save up for the pergola to the side of the house which without any issues with the neighbour, could go to within 1.1m of the boundary or just as I drew it. Good luck with the decision making and enjoy your alfresco lifestyle.