As I'm just experiencing my first walk in pantry I would put that top. When I can get back into my favourite clothes after shedding a few kilo's that might change and the walk in robe may take top spot. Here's an idea though... We also built a walk in linen / storage room in our new home to hide away all the bulky stuff and spare linens every home has. I love that room!

Hi paulaj51, you have so much to work with and it looks like you like organisation . There are so many things to consider before working out the layout such as: Is this all the clothing to be accommodated? What style of fittings do you prefer?- ie luxury, practical, economical, DIY? Is your priority space maximisation or aesthetics? I'm going to make an educated guess and assume this is all that is going into the walk in other than sweaters and shoes. I'm going to assume you are aiming for organisation, space maximisation. The recommendations are easily applicable to off the shelf products you can DIY or high end hand crafted timber, so let's look at the layout... Note# it is possible to get some systems that provide adjustability in the height of the hanging sections, so to space maximise, given there are no dresses or long hanging show, I wouldn't put any long hanging in, but you would need to be sure if you do that, that you can either adjust it later if your needs change, or allow for some now so that you are not restricted. 1 Drop all hanging to the floor- whatever length you need from the floor up. Why- because you will never have to bend again- the lowest you will have to reach is waist height- very beneficial especially as you age and also you don't bump into things as you bend! 2 Decide if you need drawers at all- I believe sweaters are better on shelves than in drawers- you can see all of them if the shelves are designed properly they will stay tidy( see notes below on shelves) . If you want drawers, decide how many and probably where you have the baskets is best opposite the entry so you have maximum space to step back to open. Why? Again- no bending because drawers must be below waist height so unless you really need them for smalls like underwear, you'll save bending, save fossicking for items lost under the top sweater and save money. Also in a walk in no drawers mean no space required to step back. 3 From your photo, you have all the lineal hanging you need so all you do is put all the shelving above the hanging space, unless you need drawers in which case I would add a section of double hanging on the left side where it will be less intrusive than anywhere else because the shelving is shallower than the hanging and so closes the space in less, you can see this in the photo below . 4 Make sure you buy shelving that is adjustable so you can change it as you like. You'll probably hardly ever do it, but you'll get maximum benefit when you're first filling it how you like. You can afford to pack those shelves really tight if they're adjustable -say for shoes, knowing that if at a later date you have less shoes and more bags you can simply spread them apart. See how tightly packed the shoes are below- 5 Now the trick about shelf design. Shelves get messy when they are hard to keep tidy.They're hard to keep tidy when.. They are the wrong width The width of the shelf doesn't fit the items stored because we like to fill the gaps with haf jumpers, and half jumpers become a confusing pile of mess. in general go for width in 30cm(12") increments -60cm (24") is a great width for sweaters. If you want to do a section for shoes- make it the width that fits them which is usually 50cm for 3 pairs or 70 cm for 4 pairs or smaller if you need to but the wider the better rather than cubbies which are really restrictive and useless if you want to use them for other things And the wrong depth Shelves should only be 36 cm deep, that's the front to back measurement. This way , nothing will move around on you in between your closet cleanouts. Don't worry about the perceived loss of space, organisation is more valuable than what equates to a lost pile of treasures at the back of the shelf. The extra benefit of this is- your walk in will feel massively bigger because the deep stuff is low and your elbow room is increased because the shelves are recessed back-very noticeable improvement! Again visible below. The very top shelf can be deeper though. A layout as suggested here will give you an enormous increase in your storage and all of it will be where you can see it, reach it, and you'll never have to get to the floor again. If you'd like more info, you can sign up for my newsletter at http://www.cleverclosetcompany.com.au/ Good Luck, Sally

full sized double sliding doors will need wall space about 3.5 m wide ie 800+ x 2 for each door plus 2 x 800 plus extra for the frame for the doors to slide inside the wall...although a 1200-1600 wide opening might fit the space available to you (installing cavity sliders near where there's another wall at right angles can be a problem so cavity sliders must be included at wall planning stage, especially if the new rooms are being added to an existing building)...i'm also wondering if a horizontal window at ceiling height in the ensuite would allow light and also cross ventilation while still allowing for more wardrobe space...and, much as i love cavity sliders, as it appears you do have space available, i suggest a hinged door into the ensuite will better restrict moisture from your clothes and also provide a space for hooks to hang your robe

we can't read the writing on your plan so can't be sure of the layout but unless the idea is unsafe, illegal or impossible i think the cabinet maker should be glad to take your money but he may have some practical reasons for his objections..my wiw have internal sliding doors that were installed by the builder or carpenter when the walls were being built not by the cabinetmaker after the walls were finished, i also can't see the point of a pull out pants rack when a nice coat hanger on a simple rod will do the job but that's just personal taste but i would like to see the corner hanging racks in action as the extra corner space should be good for bulky coats and full skirts and dresses and would allow space in the middle of the walls for drawers and shelves but if the cabinetmaker can't convince you and he's not prepared to agree then it may be time to find someone else..good luck