Thank you hechan. No your cabinets would not go to the ceiling, but the wall of shallow cabinets would. This is because having high up storage is better than not having any at all, and they are still useful for the odd vase or Xmas serving ware etc, Also it is necessary for this walled look to look right. The other column cupboard would do the same, as I like that it looks like a column or structural element and not joinery. However, laminate sheets are typically 2400mm x 1200 so they can only go to this height before. Join is necessary, this is another reason I have placed an open shelf ut on top, ring in a timber toned material, means the Join is intentional, as hiding them often fails. As for the wall, the cabinetmaker would literally stack your carcasses on top of each other, therefore the join once again is only visible at the end, where I have also placed an open unit. No bulkhead is necessary, a 20mm shadow line is left under the ceiling level, in your case the shadow line would be the minimum distance that tour plaster strapping is. The cabinetmaker would worry about this detail, you would simply ask for floor to ceiling. Retaining any architectural features is always a plus for resale, as the homes facade will generally show definite characteristics of the homes era, and this is what potential buyers are drawn to. As a result, people interested in post war, deco or ore styled homes are always grateful for retained period details, however minimal, and infact, the ceilings are the single most appreciated element of a homes design. Ts is because is generally is what gives you the wow factor, demanding your attention instantly upon entering, and they also do not dictate or influence the interior as far as your furnishings goes. You could decorate sympathetically, or contradictory to them, and either will work. The ceiling, floors and windows are the single most desirable elements of period homes, you have the ceiling and the window, most likely beautiful hardwood floors also. These elements provide all the details you need, and a lovely back drop for a simple and sophisticated fit out. Contemporary by comparison is ever popular as mod cons and innovative materials are as equally requested as period charm. Thank you for your compliments. I pride myself on being a pragmatic designer, often good design comes from the need to work within limited parameters, such as yours. But that's easily resolved wi details at address things like maximum ceiling heights with an understanding of material restrictions, ie the panel sizes in your joinery, or understanding what the joiner needs to consider before designing for them. I have an architectural fit out background, and designed many types of firings from showrooms, magazine sets and many more private houses. I'm glad you like it.

How funny. I just renovated (on a budget) my small kitchen and added exactly the slate look in tiles you have, though they are in fact porcelain. And I placed them throughout the house for continuity. The tiler asked if I was after a retro hippy look but it doesn't look like that at all. My cupboards were the same colour as yours and I utilised the bones of the kitchen and had the doors and Benchtops changed only. I also have plenty of light in the kitchen but chose white doors and as I was on a budget I chose granite look Benchtops, they are very serviceable and it looks great. The blue backsplash was the colour lift and here you could choose any colour to your liking. Basically the kitchen ended up with white cupboards and appliances other than cooktop, with the stainless cooktop and coloured splash back being the focal point. The paint colour are: whisper white walls, integra splashback, white ceiling and for increased contrast I used the same white above the splashback on the rear wall. I would consider painting out the brick but leaving the texture.

I'm about to put a cooktop on the 2.3 x 900 peninsular (island with only one free end ( in my new galley kitchen. I am using an induction top so it can be fitted flush with the benchtop surface, allowing me to use the whole area as benchtop when not in use. I intend to have bar stolls on the living room side for entertaining. My joiner has suggested making a beautiful, thin timbercover to go over the glass induction surface for added protection. I just need to decide on down draft induction hob or a ceiling casette. My main aim is to remove the smelly cooking smells from my unit. The smell from one evening of cooking indian chicken curry currently lasts at least a week! Any advice?

Ali your kitchen looks amazing. The colours are wonderful. I have a question for you about the Rugged Concrete. I’m thinking of using it on our island bench but I’m a little worried about finger marks and cleaning. I’ve read lots of bad reports about the other Caesarstone concretes like Fresh,Raw and Sleek. And I’m hoping Rugged Concrete is easy to clean. How is yours now that you’ve had it for a little while?