Thanks "The Hut Interior Design". Do you mean that I should work with the current width of about 2.5-2.6m wide (which is width of current bathroom and cupboards combined? When you say that I should split the space in 2, do you mean that the dividing line should split the current depth of 3.080m into 2 spaces of equal space. This would mean that I would have a front space of 1.54m deep and 2.6m wide in which to put the main shower and vanity, linen storage and B/I for bedroom and then the back of the current bathroom would be the ensuite also of 1.54m deep and 2.6m wide. Is there any chance you could scribble a diagram of what you mean. The diagram wouldn't need to be to scale but it would be great if you could suggest the overall space to be allowed for the main bathroom as compared to the ensuite and b/i wardrobe. Somewhere I would have to have a bit of linen storage too. I had thought about using the back of the bathroom where the window was for the ensuite and the front of the current bathroom for the main bathroom (once area is gutted). However, I could figure out how to do the ensuite and B/I wardrobe without wasting space and still be workable. Do you think in reality, I would have to put in 2 skylights. One for each bathroom. Unfortunately, I can't take space at the moment from any other room connected to the W/C as the front bedroom is quite small and I would like to keep the house as a 3 bedroom house at the moment. By keeping the current toilet where it is, it means that the main bathroom would not need a toilet in it. I have ripped out the bath and it is just sitting in the bathroom waiting for someone to help me move it out of the house (luckily I live alone here at present). There was no asbestos around the bath but the sheeting on the shower side (on which the shower tiles sit) plus the ceiling are both asbestos. That is the only asbestos in the area. From what you have said, do you recommend just working with the current bathroom and cupboard space and not taking another 0.4m x 2.1m from the bedroom (The bedroom is 3.080m deep, so I allowed 980mm for the door to swing back on current wall - If I were to eat into some space in the current bedroom).. I really appreciate your advice - it is along the lines of what I had been thinking but the 2 dilemmas I had were 1. how to make the ensuite/built in design work and 2. since main bathroom wouldn't need a toilet, how to keep make it not look way too small and cheap, knowing that it won't require a big space (square meterage) in order to work in a practical sense. ie. It may work in a practical sense, but due to its small size, it may look cheap and nasty. Many thanks for the time that you have taken to respond and your advice.

Hi Julie It does depend on alot of factors but generally its a small amount if done correctly its almost the same as the amount of water that comes of your body when you leave the shower. It also depends on the size of your floor tile, the style of hob or no hob you have and the location of the drain but your installer should go through all that with you. Good luck

Kate: - I like the idea of a door at both ends of the new central bedroom doorway - maybe some kind of thin sliding door or a foldable shutter door might be best? - house can’t be knocked down/rebuilt due to location in a heritage conservation area OkLouise: - thanks again for doing this - I’ve loved all of your updates, they are so well thought out and hope to incorporate them all into the build - will send you a token of appreciation when the build is finished! - we have already been thinking about whether to rotate the kitchen island 90 degrees as you have drawn - i think it might look weird? but i’m not sure - theres a lot for us to process with your new updates so we'll need to spend some time thinking about them! - i’m resistant to reducing the size of study 2 as that’s the most important room for me as i will spend a lot of time there and it is doubling as a work productivity office/man cave so really want that room to be fantastic! - i thought the laundry chute was above the laundry but will need to ask the architect Siriuskey - I also think there may be too many bathrooms in the house - due to the good location of the property i think it is hard (within reason) to overcapitalise on the property so believe it will grow well in value in the long run so would rather overdo it than underdo it - FWIW the other houses in the street/adjacent streets are kind of similar to our proposed plan so its not out of keeping with the area - am still wondering about combining the downstairs powder room/adjacent en suite into one big bathroom for a bath - variable number of family members staying but 4 to 11 over 3 generations at various times of the year - the plan for the mudroom is for it to be the entrance into the house that we use most so it can also act as a cloak room too so that’s why its not near the laundry - i don’t want a lift in the house as it seems unnecessary for our needs and fi we ever ended up in a situation where we needed a lift we would just sell and downsize Dreamer: - i think we (parents) might end up living downstairs when the kids get older/noisier - they are in primary school currently Pleased to Bijou design - point taken about number of bathrooms - i don’t really have a good answer Paul Di Stafano & Dr Retro - i can sense and empathise with your professional frustrations :) - thanks for the good luck wishes, I agree we’ll need it - fortunately I’m a lifelong/relentless optimist and things always seem to work out ok in the end (and if they don’t, I’ll take it as a positive learning experience) - thanks for the insights into dodgy busy practice business models mummagabz - thanks for comment about small robes - will look into making them larger

the narrowest walking space would be about 60cms (and there won't be a lot of traffic in the space and with 3800 (not 3400) the ens doorway can be pushed towards the front of the house, not centred and makes more standing room in front of the shower and easier access from the bedroom to the ens but also depends on the distance from the new wall to the side of the bay opening and that was probably centred when the house was built and before the wardrobe was installed so you need to carefully measure the room again... we now have three different widths for the room and the hall is shown as metres wide!!...is the master bedroom 3400 or 3800 or 4460 wide (ignoring the bay window) and what is the length of the whole room (ignoring the wardrobe) and what is the depth of the wardrobe from the outside and also measure from the outside of the architrave around the bedroom door to the front of the wardrobe ..could you gain some space by moving the bedroom door closer to the wardrobe and/or hinging the door to open towards the wardrobe to feel less cramped? ...we can make lots of suggestions but need to start with precise information about what you already have and based on new information and the size of an average king sized bed and the wider room my suggestion would be to place the bed in the centre of the room, lined up with the centre of the bay window and then measure how much space is available on either side for the ens and for wardrobe and bedroom door and you'll probably find that even if the bedroom door is moved there would probably be about 60-70cms between the bed and the new wall and minimal space between the bed and the door on the other side so try losing big bedside tables and use hanging lamps and mismatched side table or shelves ( a cut down stool makes a tiny side table) and keep in mind that, unless you remove the whole chimney (big job but will supply a huge number of bricks if you need some paving) the thickness of the brick walls will decide how much space is available in the chimney alcove for the vanity so measure inside the chimney not outside wall spaces but, despite limitations imo the ens is well worth the effort, cost for the improved resale value and quality of family life.. but, why not move the bed and add something to create a barrier to represent the proposed ens wall and see how it feels as something like this could work but depends on accurate measurements