You're welcome Jen. I think it was $70 shipping Australia wide. All feature herringbone tiles I'd looked at were so expensive and I found theirs for 65/ metre. I ordered extra and I'll use them for the Landry too.

What type of tiles goes with vanilla ice quarter

do you know exactly what you plan to do and have scaled a plan of the space including a wish list of new work? do you know the specific costs that were included in the builders' quote that you could use as a check list for what you need to do and where you could economise? would the builder let you use his tradespeople if you do the diy? it's often better to use trades that are used to working together or can recommend someone they know.... assuming you have no asbestos to be removed i suggest you start with an inspection by a plumber, electrician, waterproofer and tiler to confirm precise location of new work, identify any potential problems and discuss lead times for disconnections and expected reconnections of power and water and ask for quotes NB..do not demolish anything until you have confirmed everything that needs to be done, who will do it and when and all supplies are on site ready to start (in the correct sizes, models and quantities in original packages with precise installation instructions)...you need to plan the work to minimise time without a functioning laundry and minimise time that trades will need to charge for their time, can you economise by recycling any old taps, tubs, floor wastes, old skirting boards and architraves and what about flat pac cabinets instead of custom made? research and source all new appliances, tub, taps, tiles, cabinetry, window coverings and light fittings before you demolish the old laundry...the question about tiles and skirting boards depends on what you want but a standard tiled floor could have a tiled skirting board all round or the tiler can help confirm the most suitable arrangement for your job ...it's not the cost of the few metres of tiles that's the problem it's the extra cost for the waterproofing and tilers time that adds up and it's usually best to paint after the tiling is finished, then add the cabinetry, install tubs and taps and the washer comes last but demolishing never happens first...best of luck , it becomes easier with practice!

If you want Scandi or rustic then an oak benchtop on your existing kitchen and new door handles will do wonders. I know you don't want wastage but your kitchen is already 30yrs old so it's hardly that. It's the colour of the benchtop that dates the kitchen the most. A solid oak benchtop is a very minor update that will last at least a few decades to come. If you update the splashback then use a composite board or pressed tin over the existing tiles it's economical and fast with impressive results. I'd go pressed tin in brick or traditional geometric if I wanted rustic. You can have it powder coated any colour you like before installing and they do look great in modern homes. Easy to clean as well. Here's a smart modern example of a final look....Oak and pressed tin on white kitchen I would see painting either tile or laminate as a last choice. Unless you have it done professionally (they use an acrylic resin not paint btw) and spray it on with professional spray guns, it generally looks terrible and wears even worse. Having it done professionally is surprisingly expensive and you may find the upgrades above are the same or similar cost. I wouldn't change your top cabinets for open shelves unless you love cleaning and the look of clutter. It looks fab on Pinterest but that's because they've got those shelves styled with rows of uniform bowls, glasses and canisters. I have in them in my current home the only way they look good is if you do exactly the same. I bought sets of canisters and changed all my glasware for that reason. With the usual mishmash of items in a normal house they aren't a good idea.