Hi Lil, I believe your original plan works much better than the revised version. While the notion of ideal working widths is great, the larger problem here is the post. I worked on a project very similar to this last year where a post could either be connect to, or separate from the island. What we found was that by separating the island the space between island and post became very awkward. It's not enough of a space to comfortably walk through or be seated at the island in front of. Instead of your room feeling open and generous in proportion, it is going to start to feel cramped and awkward. We have a kitchen in our showroom (Kitchen Studio Tauranga NZ) with a 6ft gap between bench and back wall and it works wonderfully. It allows someone to work at the sink and a second at the island with ease. Stick with the original plan. It will feel a lot more spacious, without compromising work flows.

Sharon, I think they both look great. Trust your instincts. I personally would not be put off buying a house, because I didn't like range hood. I really like the sound of all the choices you have chosen for the kitchen.

Hi Helga, 1 ). The Island is 3.5m x 900cm ( the ridge down the middle is part of the railing system I used to get the posts so that won't be there) 2 ). Small appliance cupboard is 1m to Island (trying to get as much family space as possible and to fit the support beam/s in) my kitchen is 1100 between island and bench and I find that heaps and could easily be 1m. 3 ). The DW, window bench to Island is 1.225m , The fridge is 700deep so is 1.125m from the island, 4 ). The window bench with ovens is 1.125m to the wall of the small appliances and 950cm between ovens and pantry cabinets on the plan to allow for opening. All of these can be re positioned to line up correctly depending on what you thought, The Ovens can be swapped over to the far end of the Appliance cupboard and possibly move your appliances to where the ovens were. I think the twin beams could look great in your kitchen, I have worked artistic calculations for the beams so not sure how close I am. cheers

totally concur with retro - I def wouldn't plaster over the timber, there's so much character, personality and identity - but i don't have to tell you that because you're a woodworker! .......Plaster's boring and generic when too much of it is used.... as always, it's about balancing elements. And you start with the big stuff, and work into the detail. Consistency is also important. Personally, I'd start with getting the flooring resolved and work from there. Sure, possibly clean up some trim detail that could be positive and let the character of the major elements shine. The other big thing (and often forgotten) is on these places is focus/budget given to suitable furniture and configuration of it. It's also often the cheapest way to upgrade & get a space really sorted. The big 3 on your place judging by the photos are 1. floors 2. kitchen and 3. furniture......don't spend your money on plaster for the sake of it and lose character - I'd advise distributing it into lighter/more streamlined furniture/furnishings upgrade(such as a quality central rug) to offset against the existing natural character, better balance the materials and let the whole thing come together. Cheers PD :)