Thanks Shane! I will give this a go tomorrow. That's the problem we have, we have one of those sponge mops that squeeze but it leaves the water streaks AND you can also see where we've pushed to. I just don't feel as though "water" alone properly "cleans" so fingers crossed it works tomorrow. Thanks Wild Infusion, we actually have one of those microfibre mops but it seems to leave water streaks. So we just use it to sweep daily before the big weekend vacuum. Thanks carthiefintexas, the dishwashing detergent seems to leave the floor a bit sticky (we tested it in the kitchen after it felt oily after a while). but thanks so much for your tip.

Firstly...are you sure they are jarrah and not som other more exotic timber? If you are fortunate enough to have a genuine 1932 built cottage I say "Don't Do it!" Just look at the beautiful timber in that floor! It would be sinful to paint it. I have a 1924 cottage with beautiful hoop pine floorboards all from the day it was built. My suggestion is to have the boards sanded and polished. I would not even dare go near them with polyurethane. I have turned back the clock and used the methods of the period of the house...a mix of pale boiled linseed oil and kero. Put it on with a mop or a deck mop or a wool mop leave it soak in. Re-do and leave it soak in,,,( you won't get patches...the floors will just soak it up.) Third coat, add a bit of turps to the mix as a white ant deterrent. Then, when the floors look like they've soaked up enough, get a big old fashioned string mop...if you can find one...or use a deck scrubber and old towels...or even a wad of new ones...100% cotton...its worth it, and rub off as much of the surplus as possible...wear sox so you will notice when the sox do not get oil stained anymore. First go is a long process but you will be really pleased when the floors have had several "drinks". After that you could get just an ordinary floor varnish or oil or just a sealant. Some of the modern wood treatments are really good. Then, every so often do the boards over with your "Oil Mop". You will never find timber like that again and, in my experience, it adds to the value of the house big time. Do what you like to any gyprock and plastered walls but PLEASE love your floorboards and any natural timber...especially from that era. I've been in this old cottage for 32 years. Everyone wants to know where I sourced the "new" floorboards", and who did I get to make my silky oak windows! Hope that helps.

You are correct, it's a totally different process with floating floors. You need a solid base for them to be laid on such as yell tongue. The kitchen is installed first without the kickers and the floating floor then laid. The kickers are fitted last to cover the edge of the flora ting floor so that there is no requirement for a edge trim. Your cabinetmaker needs to be aware of what flooring is being used as this will affect the finished height of the bench tops +/- 19mm.

I like the 525 Coastal Gum in your last pic. It's light but has that ever so slight red in it that goes with the terracotta tiles, although it could just be the pic and lighting etc. But I do prefer it. Or I was going for the 550 before that. You definitely need to stick with the lighter/or oak look finish I think. Dark is way overrated and a bugger to keep clean. It shows up so much in the sunlight and yet I don't even have all that dark floors. Mine is more like a merbau look laminate and it shows up so much dust and dirt (I'm on acreage with a gravel driveway though!) But my parent's have a spotted gum engineered timber flooring with a shiny finish and it is sooooooo much nicer. So definitely stick with the lighter oak finish :)