I also have a window like that in our shower - it may, but doesn't normally get wet from the shower. I have put in a thin venetian blind in white (made from plastic) very cheap, under $5. I am in process of making an puffy austrian blind to hang above the window, for a bit of colour I am making it from a shower curtain). It will be there for looks, I may never pull it down. The venetian gives privacy and blocks the light a certain amount.

Since this thread started I've moved house and renovated two more bathrooms and this "step" issue is definitely becoming a headache. You know, we are such slavish followers of trends, I just have to wonder at times how much we are becoming victims of them too. When I built my first house over 50 years ago, most homes were built on piers with timber flooring and concrete was only used in bathrooms and laundries, but the levels were adjusted so when tiles were laid in wet areas the transition was minimal. Floor tiles were also thinner than today's tiles, in most cases they were smaller tiles too and not these great slabs we use today that obviously need to be thicker for strength. Now we are building more slab on ground homes, no provision is being made for the thickness of floor tiles to ensure a more seamless transition between areas. My front entrance is tiled and has a 2cm "step" down to the lounge and family room areas and even that 2cm I find people constantly tripping over. I plan on removing these tiles and replacing the whole entry/kitchen/family area with vinyl planking. Carpet in the lounge room helps offset that step a little but I was told recently by people who have addressed this issue this way that putting an extra layer of underfelt within the doorway area works very well to help offset this problem. When I renovated the ensuite I now have this step issue but the tiles had been glued down with an unknown product of super strength that gave my bathroom guy a lot of grief trying to jackhammer up - took him 2 days to remove them and screed the floor to his standard - and he decided he could not do the main bathroom in a realistic time frame to meet the price he quoted me, he felt he could not even guarantee the standard of work he wanted to achieve so his suggestion was to tile over the existing tiles and when he got to the doorway he would add an extra part tile sloping to down to the floor level similar to what pucciplan described with his timber. He assured me he had done it with many other renovations, it was barely noticeable and would solve the issue much easier and cheaper for me and far less time consuming. In the meantime as I have carpet in the hallway we heard of the idea of using an extra layer of underlay and I've chosen this option. My laundry is right opposite the bathroom and those tiles will be replaced too. On close inspection of the original construction, we discovered no waste drain was put into the laundry, the tiles were drained towards the external door, which is apparantly acceptable .............EXCEPT, they then put a dam across the floor inside the doorway to stop rainwater coming in under the external door!!!! Now the laundry tiles will be laid over the top of the existing ones as well to allow for any possible accident needing drainage. Fortunately I've had no weather issues but we will put a rubber flap at the base of the door, just in case, and I will again do the extra layer of underlay under the carpet and hopefully will achieve a satisfactory result. At least the two doorways will match. Quite frankly though, I'm finding so many design issues these days, I really think the whole home building industry needs a thorough overhaul. I think as I age too, so many more issues are coming to light BUT they are obviously issues that could affect anyone of any age. I think we need to forget "trends" that don't consider the big picture of things and come back down to basic commonsense. HU - I'm really at a loss as to how your builder managed to get a 6.5cm step to the bathroom, that is absolutely ridiculous. The only thing I can think of is there may have been a slope issue for drainage, but surely it could still not have been that much, anything that much out should have been picked up when the building was inspected during construction. "Normal" is a good excuse for laziness or shoddy workmanship. I think from reading your posts, you are in an apartment?? You would then have slab floors?? Therefore I can't see the need for the step to be above 2cm. Definitely take this further - Fair Trading should be able to help you, the standard heights for steps varies according to location and use - it is a bit of a minefield to work out. Good luck. Amanda - how did all your renos go in the end? Sounds like you are still sane. :)

Our house is full of cavity sliders. Twice they were all (but one) replaced due to swelling/warping and rubbing against framework when opening and closing. Some made terrible noise whenever we opened or closed them. Hubby had a hunch they were poorly manufactured overseas and discovered that was the case. Builder sourced a local manufacturer and the whole lot, bar one, was replaced and we haven't had any further issues. The one door couldn't be replaced due to it's location - a wall would have had to be pulled down, just as co-design has described. This experience makes me think it may be a case of ensuring you purchase well manufactured doors for your climate and particular environment, and take into careful consideration the particular location they will be installed.

subject to confirmation by a plumber your new layout should be ideal with just enough space for a stacked washer and dryer and skinny tub and wall shelf for the laundry (i'm assuming the old shower position also has taps and floor waste) and a 1500 wide vanity with storage for linen and mirror doored medicine cabinet but what is the triangular space?? there could be wall thickeness to use for stacked doors for the laundry instaed of the bifolds btw a floating (wall hung) vanity is usually more expensive, creates problems hiding the pipes and will lose valuable storage space for towels and lineni would expect a full reno with modest quality fixtures and tiles and no surprises to cost at least $20,000 but suggest that a bathroom company that could take responsibility for organising demolition, plumbing, carpentry, waterproofing, tiling electrical, painting and sourcing the tiles, taps, screens, lightfittings, tubs, doors etc may be worthwhile and save you trying to juggle the trades who are less likely to be dependable for a single customer although with available time you may be able to save some money by removing old tiles and carting away rubble and finding the tiles. taps, vanity etcs and having them ready on site but coordinating all the trades can be a problem especially if you don't have an alternative bathroom although it's always good to be on site to supervise the work and answer any last minute questions