Hi there I thought I would jump in here a touch as you are on the right track but there are some glaring points that need to be cleared up for you before you go and purchase flooring. Laminate flooring is a Hi Def image of Timber flooring/oak/Natural Species etc and then transposed using a heat method to a MDF or HDF core, then profiled with a click system for ease of installation, maintenance relocation and repair. Good laminate flooring (Quikstep or Krono Swiss) can be very rewarding , look very much like natural timber, and be very durable against scratching and indentation. Laminates nemesis is high saturation of water or moisture. Good e budget solution for all living areas and rooms except toilets bathroom or laundrys. Engineered boards are a veneer of Natural timber and are just as durable as the solid version of whatever species you choose. Whether that be Spotted Gum, Jarrah or Oak. Sorry but you CAN re sand engineered boards. When re sanding occurs through a professional sander, the top .5mm is the depth of the product that you generally ever really need to remove. Some engineered flooring has a 6mm wear layer/ veneer and that's more than if you purchased a solid 19mm raw timber floor. Engineered boards are less likely "cup"(edge of the boards rising so that you can see a little lip) than a solid. We would recommend that if you are considering a timber floor please consult a retailer that only handles timber and specializes in that medium. Hope this helped

Polyurethane timber floor finishes are the most durable and economical floor coating available for floor sanding and polishing projects. Especially if you are considering the resale of your home in the future. Liming or white washing your floor certainly is in fashion at the moment but is far more expensive to do. If you are still interested in liming your timber floors take a look our blog for some more info . http://budgetfloorsanding.com.au/?s=liming+timber+floors http://budgetfloorsanding.com.au/timber-floor-finishes/timber-floor-staining/

I don't know about the osmo, I have only looked at it on the net. If you are looking for the satin look, I can guarantee that is what you will achieve with three coats of the livos Kunos oil as I have used hundreds of litres of it. If you look at their web site it will answer all of your questions and don't hesitate to call them. I would also ask if they have a recommended floor sander in your area, as it is not your normal sand and apply. Keep the questions coming if you have any. There is nothing I enjoy more than knowing that out timber resources are being treated in the best possible manner. These shots are of my own jarrah floor that show the scratches from the couch and after 2 mins repair. If this had been a poly floor the only option would be to sand the entire house.

I’ve received different and conflicting advice. All of which seems valid. Lay first cause you may want to change kitchen layout. Guys....I have had my existing kitchen 20 years and it was here when we arrived. Add another 15 years. I’m in my 50’s...highly unlikely I will be changing layout. I’m choosing floating boards because I wanted to soften the otherwise very modern kitchen that I’m getting. Floating instead of actual boards because of $$. I don’t want to put tiles or concrete in case of a possible plumbing mishap. Positive vibes. Thanks to all for your advice.