I think your tiles need to be larger. Choose an interesting, but simple pattern similar to the one below. I also like the idea of something that is from the region you live. Without seeing your space it is hard to know. You say a stone fireplace, what kind of stone? You want the tiles to go, but to make the fireplace stand out do not go too matchy. Mixing concrete with the tiles can create interest, too.

Hi there! If you wanted to keep the organic look of natural timber, and limit your on-going maintenance and costs, porcelain timber-look tiles would be a practical option. The designs available now are amazing, and there are huge benefits when using a technical porcelain product over natural material, ongoing costs being just one. I won't clog up your question with more details, though I am happy to help further, just ask! Check out this link : https://www.houzz.com.au/discussions/par-ker-timber-tiles-dsvw-vd~1163160 Hopefully it's both helpful and interesting. Best of luck!

Hi, why don't you have a think about installing composite decking which will allow you to be level with the door sill without the worry of run-off into the house due to the 5mm gap between the boards. Composite doesn't required coating so the maintenance issues are significantly less, just a hose down and sweep or mop with water. You would still need to excavate approx. 250mm below the finished deck level to allow for the sub-frame but if you use treated pine framing with, either H4 stumps in concrete, or galvanised stirrups to anchor the framing into the soil. Check with your local decking pro for further advice and brand options. Generally, the USA made composites like Trex or Timbertech are better quality and the concealed fixing systems are easy to install. Your soil type may be the only issue with water, ie clay which retains water, or sand which tends to drain more quickly. Good luck

These tradies are cowboys . I have never seen a mess like that in a bath or else where in over 30 years . The bath normally sits on a bed of concrete slurry or if it is a cast iron bath it should be supported by either feet or the hob. The bath should have enough room under the edges to allow the tiles to go under the lip so a proper silicon seal can be applied all the way around the lip of the bath. As for the insulation it is not necessary to have it wrapped in any water proof protection. If the water is getting onto the insulation then you have bigger problems and from the look of the photos this looks like a definite future possibility.I like to put insulation batts all the way around the bath to try to retain the water temperature for as long as possible,not many people do this though ,but the more you insulate things the better. Looking at your photos the pipework connecting the waste is broken off so the hob will need to have atleast one side pulled off or an access hole cut into it to connect the plumbing. I would be getting these plumbers and builders checked out,if the photos are any indication to go by then there would be other areas of faulty workmanship for sure, -sorry to tell you.