depending on the size of the existing vanity it should be possible to have a similar new vanity or a custom unit made to replace the original but a chat with a plumber should be arranged to recommend suitable options and plan a schedule to remove the old and install the new, including any necessary waterproofing or tile repairs..btw careful removal could allow the original sink, taps and even the counter to be saved and recycled into a new vanity that matches the bathroom perfectly with the added option of being able to add different doors or drawers to the cabinet

wet room floors should be sloped to allow for drainage but mistakes happen...did you have a contract with the builder detailing what was to be included?..either way you should contact the nearest branch of the Builders Licensing Board or Fair Trading for advice and they'll probably suggest you contact the builder for repairs but take detailed photos and keep all contact in writing..my daughter recently had a similar problem and the builder was happy to come back and fully repair the work so hopefully you'll be equally successful, best of luck

I really like that floor. I hope you are able to keep it once the complexities of waterproofing are revealed. Really large tiles would not be era appropriate. And they were moving away from subway tiles by then. Perhaps 20-25cm square in running bond for that decade? Colour will be easier to pick when the green is gone. I think bright whites could be useful accents but were not really available back then, except whitewash. So depends on how true to the age you want to be or if you’d prefer to have your own blend of the best of two eras.

Two options for your floor For a Quality Bathroom Renovation 1) Best Option Remove existing yellow tongue, the sheets may extend be under the walls to the adjoining room, can be done...NOT an easy job, hand saw and chisel 2( Hardies Ceramic Tile underlay nailed onto the existing yellow tongue, MUST be nailed to manufacturers specifications. Nails, as specified and spacing as specified. 3) Walls ...Plumb Studs, add noggins for vanity, recessed shaving cabinet et all check top and bottom plates 4) Rough In Plumbing 5) 6) Rough In electrical 7) Insulate walls with Sound Check Insulation,,, Add flashing angles in corners... 8) Fix Hardiflex to specifications 300mm centers, galvanized clouts if using wall tiles up to 15 mm use 6.5 thick villaboard, if over, use 9 mm villoaboard 9) Sikaflex with 11FC all gaps villaboard to floor, 10) Waterproof , apply ( Davco K10 plus, easy one to apply. not toxic nor inflamable whole floor, showed say 300 above shower screen 1 metre to sides of the shower, 600 above bath, vanity, 400 around remaining bathroom walls 11) Shower wall to floor, and about 300 past shower, add Polyester Bandage abt 100 mm wide 12) Fix water bars to, shower and door ( MUST be level ) with Sikaflex 11 FC 13) Second coat of waterproofing to all areas 14 ) Tiler to "top floor"/ lay tile bed, 15) After drying 4/5 days, WATERPROOF on top of tile bed, with another Polyester Bandage in shower area....the waterproof on top of the tile bed is to keep the tile bed dry .. two coats in shower 16) Commence tiling